Walking Tour of Dijon (with Maps!)

Darcy Garden is a magnificent public garden that exemplifies the neo-Renaissance style, constructed in the late 19th century. This garden honors Henry Darcy, a distinguished hydraulic engineer, and has been recognized as a historical monument since 2015 due to its architectural significance and historical importance.

Designed in 1880 by Félix Vionnois, a notable architect in Dijon at the time, the garden was established on the site of Darcy’s original water reservoir, merging natural beauty with engineering prowess. The garden stretches over extensive grounds and features an assortment of trees and flowers, beautifully arranged balustraded terraces, scenic ponds, elegant fountains, and captivating waterfalls. It also includes play areas for children, making it a perfect spot for family outings.

The centrepiece of the garden is a monument that houses a bust of Henry Darcy, designed by architect Emile Sagot. The monument bears an inscription that celebrates Darcy’s remarkable contributions and underscores his role as the chief engineer of the Department, highlighting his skill and altruism in the design and initiation of the works.

Another significant element of the garden is the “Polar Bear in its Stride” statue at its entrance, which holds considerable symbolic value for Dijon. This statue, a 1937 reproduction by Henry Martinet, honors François Pompon’s original White Bear sculpture, a well-known work by the Burgundian sculptor that is housed in the Musée d’Orsay. The replica in Darcy Garden stands as a cherished emblem of the city.

Dijon has boasted an Hôtel de la Cloche since the 15th century, though the original location was nearer to the city center. The hotel relocated to its current position following the development of Darcy Square in the late 1880s. Like many grand buildings, it nearly met its demise in the 1970s—a period marked by rampant destruction and so-called modernization that impacted many cities globally, not just in France. The hotel was on the brink of being demolished; furniture was auctioned, cutlery was sold, and bulldozers were poised to level it. However, a public outcry turned its impending demolition into a national controversy, sparking a movement that ultimately saved the building’s façade.

The Hôtel de la Cloche was subsequently declared a national monument, a designation that typically ensures preservation, although there have been rare instances where political decisions have overridden such protections. Today, it stands as Dijon’s sole five-star hotel and has accommodated numerous celebrities over the years, including Napoleon III, Grace of Monaco, Joan Baez, Maurice Chevalier, and MC Solaar.

The hotel is distinctively adorned with bells on its windows, which, next to the owls, are perhaps the most beloved symbol of Dijon.

Easily visible from the Jardin Darcy, the stand-alone Porte Guillaume could remind you of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, given its grand design.

Originally, during the Middle Ages, there was a gateway here complete with flanking towers and a drawbridge, serving as part of the city’s fortifications. As the need for ramparts waned by the 18th century, the old gate was demolished, and in its place, this triumphal arch was erected.

The purpose of the new arch was to project the magnificence of Dijon and to honor the Prince of Condé, the then-governor of Burgundy. Initially named after him, the arch’s designation changed following subsequent revolutions, first to the Gate of Freedom and eventually, it was renamed in honor of Guillaume de Volpiano, the abbot of Saint-Bénigne.

While it now stands alone, try to imagine it in its original context: a simpler, yet formidable gateway, lined by high walls designed to repel invaders.

The Hôtel des Postes de Dijon, with its distinctive architectural elegance, is a historical gem located in the heart of the city. Originally built in the early 20th century, this building is a striking example of neoclassical design, characterized by its ornate facades and grand scale. The structure was initially designed to serve as the main post office and still stands out today for its impressive detailing and the historical significance it holds. As you gaze upon the Hôtel des Postes, you can appreciate the meticulous craftsmanship and the aura of a bygone era that it embodies, making it not just a functional space but also a key piece of Dijon’s architectural heritage. Whether you are an architecture enthusiast or a casual observer, the Hôtel des Postes de Dijon offers a fascinating glimpse into the artistic and cultural flourishes that define this historic city.

Like the Grand Hôtel de la Cloche, Les Halles in Dijon was nearly demolished in 1975. Plans were in place to tear it down and replace it with a parking lot, but it was saved at the last minute when it was added to the national list of historical monuments, preserving its rich heritage from the grasp of developers.

The iron structure of Les Halles is often mistakenly credited to Gustave Eiffel, likely because of his Dijon origins and his famous architectural style. However, the real credit for this iconic indoor market goes to a number of city architects and engineers. Before becoming a market, the site housed an old Jacobean convent, adding layers to its historical narrative.

Visiting Les Halles around lunchtime is highly recommended. The market is open on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, offering a vibrant assortment of local products. Grab a French baguette, some cheese, charcuterie, and a little wine, and enjoy a casual lunch in the nearby Jardin Darcy. Alternatively, you can dine at one of the bustling restaurants surrounding Les Halles, but be sure to arrive early as they tend to fill up quickly. This area not only feeds the stomach but also offers a feast for the senses, surrounded by the history and culture of Dijon.

In the heart of Dijon, nestled amidst its storied streets, Place François Rude offers a charming stop on any walking tour of this historic city. Often bustling with activity, this square is affectionately known by locals as Place du Bareuzai, a nod to the iconic statue of the Bareuzai winegrower treading grapes that dominates the central fountain. The statue, a symbol of the region’s rich viticultural heritage, adds character to the picturesque setting. Around the square, visitors can admire the blend of medieval and Renaissance architecture, with beautifully restored buildings housing cafes and shops that invite passersby to linger over a coffee or explore unique local crafts.

Just a stone’s throw from Place François Rude, Rue des Forges stretches out as a vibrant artery through Dijon’s historic center. This street is a treasure trove for architecture enthusiasts and casual explorers alike, boasting a series of splendid townhouses, such as the Maison Maillard and the Hôtel Aubriot, which offer a glimpse into the city’s opulent past. As you stroll down Rue des Forges, the buzz of the city life merges with the echoes of history, making it a perfect route for those looking to dive deeper into Dijon’s cultural landscape. Shops along the street present an array of fine Burgundian products, from mustard to wine, ensuring that every visitor can take a piece of Dijon home with them.

Stairs of the Hotel Chambellan: Step through the small portal at number 34 on the street and discover what is arguably Dijon’s most stunning courtyard. As you wander into this hidden gem, don’t miss the opportunity to ascend the stairs of the Hôtel Chambellan. When you reach the top, be sure to look up to admire the captivating sculpture of a gardener cradling a basket, set against the backdrop of the intricately designed roof. This unique artistic detail adds a charming touch to the architectural elegance, making your visit to the Hôtel Chambellan a memorable highlight of Dijon’s rich cultural tapestry.

Tourist Office: Pop in here to get your tickets for Tour Philippe le Bon, if you have not already got them.

Église Notre-Dame de Dijon stands as a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, commanding the attention of visitors with its intricate facade and majestic presence in the heart of the city. As you approach, the twin Gothic towers of Notre-Dame rise impressively against the Dijon skyline, offering a perfect photo opportunity. Inside, the church houses a revered statue of the Virgin Mary, believed to protect the city’s residents. Visiting Notre-Dame in Dijon provides not just a glimpse into the religious and architectural history of the region, but also a peaceful retreat from the bustling city streets.

Built in the 13th century, this church is famous for its rows of gargoyles, which dramatically adorn the exterior, and the Jacquemart clock tower.  Jacquelinet and Jacquelinette, charmingly handle the quarter-hour chimes on smaller bells. What’s particularly fascinating about these figures is their historical lineage: Jacquemart first arrived in Dijon in 1383. This early example of mechanical automation was a gift from Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, who brought the original Jacquemart, along with the clock and the big bell, from Kortrijk in Belgium (referred to as Courtrai in French). This was in gratitude for Dijon providing him with 1,000 armed men for his campaign in Flanders. The journey wasn’t without its challenges; notably, the bell broke en route and had to be recast. Over the centuries, the Jacquemart family grew: Jacqueline was introduced in 1651 to share the hourly duties, likely to give Jacquemart some much-needed rest. The family expanded further with the addition of Jacquelinet in 1714 for the quarter-hour strikes, and finally, Jacquelinette joined in 1884, completing the family ensemble.

On the north side of Notre-Dame in Dijon, there lies a small chapel along the quaint rue de la Chouette (Owl Street), a popular pedestrian way. A particular corner of a chapel buttress features a sculpted bird, commonly thought to represent an owl. This carving may have been the personal insignia of a stonemason; it is certainly not the mark of the original architect, as the chapel was constructed in the late 15th or early 16th century, well after the church itself. Over the years, the owl sculpture has become smooth and detail-less, worn down by the touch of countless hands. A local superstition holds that rubbing the owl with your left hand while making a wish brings good luck, contributing to its worn condition. The caress should be done by turning her back on the little salamander under the left window, she has the power to cancel the wish!

Tragically, on January 5, 2001, this cherished owl was vandalized with several hammer blows. Fortunately, a mould of the owl made in 1988 by a Louvre expert was available and used to restore the sculpture to its former glory by February 2001. Now under video surveillance, the restored owl was officially reinaugurated on May 12, 2001. Beyond its allure as a local curiosity, the owl has grown into a broader symbol of Dijon. In 2001, it was selected as the emblem for the Parcours de la Chouette (Owl Walk), a tourist trail that guides visitors through the city’s historic center, marked by 22 square plaques each bearing the image of an owl. Additionally, Dijon Football Côte d’Or, the city’s football club, proudly features an owl as its emblem, further embedding this unique sculpture into the cultural fabric of Dijon.

The Doyenne of Dijon, one of the city’s oldest half-timbered houses, dates back to 1483. Originally owned by Guillaume Millière and his wife, Guillemette, both drapers from Beaune, they chose to demolish an even older house on the site to construct this larger, more modern structure. At the time, they even sought a tax rebate to offset their costs, though it’s unclear if it was ever granted. Interestingly, if Millière had delayed his construction a few years, he might have benefited from his great-grandson’s tenure as Mayor of Dijon, potentially saving on those taxes.

Over the centuries, despite laws that discouraged the renovation of wooden structures due to fire hazards, this house managed to survive and change hands multiple times. It faced structural issues and was temporarily closed, but in 1927, it reopened as a hardware store. The late 1990s saw further restorations that transformed it into its current iteration: a charming restaurant with a traditional boutique on-site.

Adding a touch of whimsy and superstition to the structure, a black bronze cat sits atop the roof. Local lore warns that after touching the famed Dijon owl, one should avoid looking at this cat, as it might thwart your wishes, similar to the dragon/salamander legend. Adjacent to the cat, a ceramic owl stands guard, tasked with ensuring that any wishes made do indeed reach the heavens. So, when visiting, remember to craft your wishes carefully—this place seems to demand a bit of magical maneuvering to ensure they come true!

The Hôtel de Vogüé in Dijon is not a typical hotel for overnight stays but rather a grand ‘hôtel particulier’—a private mansion designed as a testament to wealth and status. Constructed around 1614, this town mansion was built for Étienne Bouhier, a Councillor at the Burgundy Parliament. Renowned as one of the finest parliamentary mansions of the 17th century in France, the Hôtel de Vogüé showcases the opulent Renaissance style akin to that of the Maison Maillard on rue des Forges. Its grand entrance porch, highlighted by ornate bosses, leads into a courtyard framed by a beautifully sculpted portico. The architecture combines a classical structure with the luxurious decorative flourishes of the Italian Renaissance. In 1766, the property transitioned to the de Vogüé family and was later acquired by the city. It currently serves a practical role, housing the Human Resources Department of the City of Dijon, continuing its legacy of public service in a different capacity.

Nestled in the heart of Dijon, the Tour Philippe le Bon offers a captivating glimpse into the rich history of Burgundy. Standing tall since the 15th century, this iconic tower is part of the Ducal Palace complex, and invites visitors to climb its 316 steps for a panoramic view of the city. The ascent reveals the architectural splendor of the Gothic era, with each step and turn bringing into focus the intricate craftsmanship of a bygone era. At the summit, travelers are rewarded with sweeping vistas of Dijon’s terracotta rooftops, bustling streets, and verdant surroundings. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or simply in search of a picturesque view, a visit to Tour Philippe le Bon is an enchanting step back in time, offering a unique perspective on Dijon’s heritage and beauty.

N.B. You have to book a ticket for a timed entry, but this can be done either in the tourist office, or online.

Nestled within the opulent Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon is one of the oldest in France and boasts an impressive collection that spans from ancient Egyptian artifacts to modern masterpieces. As you wander through the lavishly decorated rooms, you’ll encounter works by renowned artists such as Titian, Veronese, and Poussin, alongside a rich array of French art and intricate medieval sculptures. The museum’s recent renovations enhance the visitor experience, beautifully blending its historical architecture with contemporary design elements. Whether you’re an avid art connoisseur or a curious traveler, the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon offers a deep dive into the artistic heritage that has shaped this region’s cultural identity.

The Église Saint-Michel in Dijon stands as a stunning example of the architectural transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles, making it a fascinating destination for anyone interested in history and architecture. This beautiful church, located just a short walk from the city center, boasts an impressive façade with elaborately carved portals that are a testament to the artistic prowess of the 16th century. Inside, visitors are treated to a wealth of artistic treasures, including stained glass windows that cast colorful light onto the church’s intricate interior, and altarpieces that display remarkable craftsmanship. The mix of serene gothic arches and ornate renaissance decoration makes the Église Saint-Michel not just a place of worship, but a captivating historical monument that offers a quiet respite from the bustling city, while also telling stories of Dijon’s rich past through its art and architecture.

Visiting the Musée Rude in Dijon offers a unique opportunity to delve into the artistic legacy of François Rude, a celebrated French sculptor. Housed in the historic setting of the former Église Saint-Étienne, an 11th-century building, the museum showcases an impressive array of life-size plaster casts of Rude’s significant works. These casts, originally collected by the city between 1887 and 1910, mirror the originals that grace major French museums, including the Louvre. In addition to these sculptures, the Musée Rude also features an archaeological crypt from the 11th century and the ancient St. Stephen’s Gate from the 3rd century, adding layers of historical depth to your visit. Open from early June to the end of September, with free admission, this museum not only highlights Rude’s contributions to French art but also beautifully integrates Dijon’s rich cultural tapestry. It’s a perfect destination for those who appreciate fine art and history nestled within a serene, historical setting.

Place du Théâtre in Dijon is a must-visit for anyone exploring this historic city. This charming square is home to the grand Dijon Theatre, an architectural gem that stages a variety of performances throughout the year. The square is also dotted with lovely cafes and restaurants where visitors can sit back and enjoy the lively atmosphere, making it the perfect spot to take a break and people-watch. The surrounding buildings boast elegant facades, reflecting the rich history and artistic heritage of Dijon. As you stroll through Place du Théâtre, you’re walking on cobblestones steeped in centuries of stories and culture, truly a delightful experience for any traveler seeking to immerse themselves in the local vibe of Dijon.

Delve into Burgundy’s ancient past at the Musée Archéologique de Dijon, housed in the historic Abbey of St. Bénigne. Established in 1832, this museum is a treasure trove of artifacts that tell the story of the region from prehistory through the Middle Ages. Highlights include impressive collections of paleochristian and sacred art, along with relics from ancient Roman rule. The museum’s setting next to the majestic Dijon Cathedral adds to its historic allure, making it a must-visit for history buffs exploring Dijon.

The Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne de Dijon stands as a monumental piece of Gothic architecture and a spiritual cornerstone of the city. Originally built in the 11th century and reconstructed in the 13th and 14th centuries, this cathedral boasts a stunningly intricate façade and a richly decorated interior. Beneath its floors, the crypt, one of the oldest in France, offers a glimpse into the early Christian era, making the cathedral not only a place of worship but also a fascinating historical site.

Explore the wonders of the natural world at the Muséum d’histoire naturelle de Dijon. Located in the heart of the city, this museum is dedicated to the preservation and exhibition of a wide range of natural specimens, from regional flora and fauna to fascinating geological displays. The museum’s interactive exhibits and educational programs make it an engaging destination for families and anyone interested in learning more about our planet’s biodiversity.

A serene escape within the city, the Jardin Botanique de l’Arquebuse is both a botanical garden and an arboretum that spans over 5 hectares. This peaceful oasis showcases an extensive collection of plants and trees, meticulously arranged to display the diversity of Burgundy’s natural flora. With its thematic gardens, educational displays, and tranquil walkways, the Jardin Botanique is a delightful retreat for nature lovers and those seeking a quiet moment away from the urban hustle.

The Chartreuse de Champmol, historically known as the Carthusian monastery of Champmol, is a fascinating site on the outskirts of Dijon that offers a unique glimpse into Burgundian art and history. Founded in 1383 by Duke Philip the Bold of Burgundy, the monastery was intended as a dynastic burial place and is renowned for its rich sculptural decoration. Although much of the monastery no longer exists, visitors can still explore the remaining sculptures, including the famous “Well of Moses” by Claus Sluter, which is an outstanding example of Burgundian Gothic art. This masterpiece features detailed statues of prophets and an impressive array of biblical iconography. The tranquility of the site, combined with its historical and artistic significance, makes the Chartreuse de Champmol a must-visit for those interested in medieval art and the history of Burgundy.