Prasat Bayon
Temple in Siem Reap
Prasat Bayon is a highly ornate Khmer temple located at Angkor, Cambodia, and is closely associated with Buddhism. Constructed in the late 12th or early 13th century as the state temple of King Jayavarman VII, it stands at the center of his capital, Angkor Thom.
The Bayon’s most notable feature is its numerous serene, smiling stone faces, which are believed to represent Brahma—possibly modeled after the face of King Jayavarman VII himself. These faces adorn the towers surrounding the upper terrace and cluster around the central peak of the temple. The Japanese Government Team for the Safeguarding of Angkor (JSA) has described the Bayon as “the most striking expression of the baroque style” in Khmer architecture, in contrast to the classical style seen at Angkor Wat. However, the precise identity of the carved faces remains a topic of scholarly debate, with theories suggesting they could represent either Lokeshavara, King Jayavarman VII, or a combination of both. Further uncertainties surround the number of original towers and faces—while 37 towers remain today, evidence suggests there were originally 49, and the often-cited 216 faces are derived from the assumption that each tower had four faces, despite some towers featuring only three or even just one.
The Bayon is also one of the most intricate and enigmatic temples in the Angkor complex. Though a temple likely existed at the site before Jayavarman VII’s construction, the temple was significantly remade and expanded, especially with the influence of subsequent rulers. Initially a Hindu temple, it later became a Buddhist site, with later additions from various Buddhist and Hindu monarchs altering its structure. Despite its compact size—lacking a boundary wall or grand gopuras—some historians argue that the city’s walls, gates, and moat were originally designed to enclose the Bayon as well. For example, the South Gate of Angkor Thom is believed to serve as the southern gopura of the Bayon, while the temple’s main entrance aligns with Angkor Thom’s East Gate.
Etymology
The Bayon was originally called Jayagiri, meaning “Victory Mountain” or “Mountain of Brahma,” which has Sanskrit roots similar to “Sīnhāgiri” (Lion Rock). The name “Bayon” was given in 1880 by French scholar Etienne Aymonier, who believed it derived from the Khmer “Bayânt,” a form of the Pali or Sanskrit names Vejayant or Vaijayant, referring to the celestial palace of Indra, thought to be the earthly counterpart of the Bayon. The prefix “Ba” suggests the presence of a protector, a meaning found in places like Ba Phnom.
History
The Bayon was the last state temple constructed at Angkor and the only one built primarily for Buddhist worship, although it also honored a variety of local and minor deities representing the empire’s districts. Originally a Hindu temple, the Bayon was central to Jayavarman VII’s massive building program, which also included the construction of Angkor Thom’s walls and the temples of Vishnu, Ta Prohm, and Banteay Kdei.
Many scholars believe the 216 faces on the temple’s towers represent Jayavarman VII, though others theorize that the faces depict Avalokitesvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. Some local beliefs also associate the temple with Brahma, due to the four faces and the presence of three eyes, a symbol of Shiva in the Hindu Trimurti. Angkor scholar George Coedès argued that Jayavarman VII viewed himself as a devaraja (god-king), a position traditionally held by Hindu kings, but as a Buddhist, his temple reflects this shift.
Alterations Post-Jayavarman VII
After Jayavarman VII’s death, the Bayon underwent multiple changes, particularly during the reign of Jayavarman VIII, who reintroduced Hinduism and altered the temple to reflect this. Later, as Theravada Buddhism became dominant, the temple was further modified, ultimately abandoned and reclaimed by the jungle. Additional features, like the eastern terrace, libraries, and parts of the upper terrace, were not part of the original design.
Modern Restoration
The early 20th century saw efforts by the École Française d’Extrême Orient to restore the Bayon, utilizing anastylosis techniques. Since 1995, the Japanese Government Team for the Safeguarding of Angkor (JSA) has led the conservation efforts, organizing annual symposia on the site.
The Site
The Bayon is located at the center of Angkor Thom and is oriented to the east, with its buildings arranged along the east-west axis. The temple itself lacks walls or moats, instead relying on the city’s walls and gates. Unlike the open spaces of Angkor Wat, the Bayon’s design feels more compact, with its elements tightly arranged. The temple features two galleried enclosures and an upper terrace, crowded together with little space between.
Outer Gallery: Historical Events and Daily Life
The outer gallery of the Bayon contains bas-reliefs depicting historical events and daily life in the Angkorian era, including battles, military processions, market scenes, and domestic life. While the exact historical context of the reliefs is unclear due to the lack of inscriptions, they provide valuable insight into the culture and events of the time.
Inner Gallery: Mythological Scenes
The inner gallery is smaller and features scenes from Hindu mythology, including depictions of gods like Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma, as well as mythological figures like Ravana and Garuda. Some of the reliefs remain enigmatic, such as a series showing the freeing of a goddess from a mountain or a king battling a serpent, possibly referencing the Leper King legend.
Upper Terrace: The Face Towers
The famous face towers of the Bayon are located on the upper terrace, which was added after the temple’s initial construction. Each tower features multiple large faces, most commonly four, with around 200 faces in total across the site. The central tower rises 43 meters, and at its heart, there was originally a statue of the Buddha, which was destroyed in the 13th century but later recovered and displayed at Angkor.
The Prasat Bayon appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Siem Reap!
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Visiting Prasat Bayon
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