Piazza dell Anfiteatro, Lucca

Amphitheatre in Lucca

CC BY-SA 4.0 / Kasa Fue

Piazza dell'Anfiteatro is one of those places that instantly tells you Lucca is a little different. Tucked into the northeast corner of the walled centre, this enclosed, oval-shaped piazza still follows the lines of the Roman amphitheatre that once stood here. The buildings curve around you like a soft echo of the ancient arena, with four narrow gateways piercing the ring at the “corners” of the ellipse. In the centre, a simple cross carved into the pavement marks the directions of those entrances, a quiet reminder that you're standing where tens of thousands once gathered for entertainment nearly two millennia ago.

Today, the roar of the crowd has been replaced by clinking glasses and the low hum of conversation. The remains of the amphitheatre, whose foundations now lie about three metres below ground level, were gradually transformed into housing and shops over the centuries. In the 1830s, architect Lorenzo Nottolini cleared away cramped inner buildings to open up the space, creating the airy piazza you see today and originally planning it as a market. Now it's ringed with pastel façades, potted plants, and restaurant terraces, making it one of the top sights in Lucca and a great place to visit on a walking tour of Lucca when you want to sit down, look around, and imagine everything this oval has witnessed.

History and Significance of Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
Things to See and Do in Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
How to Get to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
Practical Tips on Visiting Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
Where to Stay close to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
Is Piazza dell’Anfiteatro Worth Visiting?
FAQs for Visiting Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
Nearby Attractions to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

History and Significance of Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

The story of Piazza dell'Anfiteatro begins long before there was a piazza at all. In Roman times, this was the site of Lucca's amphitheatre, a major civic monument with around 18 rows of seats and space for roughly 10,000 spectators. Built in the 1st or 2nd century BC, it would have hosted the usual mix of performances, public events, and spectacles that defined Roman urban life. Over the centuries, as the empire waned and new powers rose, the building gradually fell out of use; stones were robbed for other projects, and the arena floor slowly filled with later constructions.

By the Middle Ages, the amphitheatre had effectively disappeared above ground, but its footprint lived on. Houses and workshops were built into the old outer walls, following their curve almost unconsciously. The interior eventually became a crowded warren of buildings and courtyards. Yet the basic outline of the Roman structure survived in the street pattern and foundations, quietly shaping the neighbourhood long after the original purpose had faded from memory.

The big turning point came in 1830, when Lorenzo Nottolini reimagined the area. Recognising the latent potential of the oval, he cleared many of the internal structures and opened up a central space, transforming the interior into a planned piazza. His design kept the elliptical outline, preserved the ring of buildings, and gave Lucca something unique: a lively urban square that still clearly reads as the descendant of a Roman amphitheatre. That blend of ancient bones and 19th-century urban design is what makes Piazza dell'Anfiteatro one of the must-see places in Lucca for anyone curious about how cities evolve over time.

Things to See and Do in Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

The first thing to do is simply walk in slowly and let your eyes adjust to the curve. Enter through any of the four arched gateways and you immediately feel the space wrap around you, a soft oval of façades in pale yellows, creams, and terracotta. Look down for the cross carved into the paving at the centre of the square; its arms point directly to each of the four entrances, a subtle, almost playful way of mapping the geometry under your feet.

Next, take a lap around the piazza. As you circle, notice how the buildings differ in height and detailing, yet still follow the same gentle arc. Many of them incorporate fragments of Roman masonry in their lower walls, hints of the amphitheatre’s original structure repurposed into domestic life. Balconies spill over with flowers, shopfronts and trattorie open under arcades or awnings, and laundry sometimes hangs from upper windows, reminding you that this is still a living place, not a frozen monument.

Finally, claim a table at one of the cafés or restaurants and just watch. Children play in the open space, cyclists glide through, and tour groups drift in and out while locals cut straight across the centre on daily errands. The square is especially atmospheric in the early evening, when the light softens and the façades turn honey-gold. This is one of the things to do in Lucca that combines a real sense of history with the simple pleasure of ordering a coffee or glass of wine and lingering as long as you like.

How to Get to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

Piazza dell'Anfiteatro lies in the northeast quadrant of Lucca's historic walled centre. Once you're inside the walls, it's an easy walk from anywhere in the old town: from the Guinigi Tower or Via Fillungo, follow small side streets and signs toward the “Anfiteatro,” and you'll soon reach one of the four gateways leading into the square.

If you're arriving by air, the most convenient gateways to Lucca are Pisa International Airport and Florence Airport, both of which offer regular connections to Tuscany's main towns. For the best deals and a seamless booking experience, check out these flights to Lucca on Booking.com. From either airport you can continue to Lucca by train, bus, or hire car, depending on your schedule and plans.

By train, Lucca is well connected to Pisa, Florence, and other Tuscan cities, with the station located just outside the southern stretch of the city walls. Use Omnio to easily compare schedules, book train tickets, and find the best prices all in one place for a hassle-free journey across Italy. From the station, walk through Porta San Pietro and follow the main streets toward the centre; Piazza dell'Anfiteatro is about 15-20 minutes on foot, with plenty of cafés and shop windows along the way.

If you're driving, the A11 motorway and regional roads link Lucca with Pisa, Florence, and the wider region.If you are looking to rent a car in Italy I recommend having a look at Discover Cars, first, as they compare prices and review multiple car rental agencies for you. Cars are restricted inside the historic centre, so you'll need to park in one of the car parks outside or near the walls and continue on foot; from most parking areas, the walk to Piazza dell'Anfiteatro is straightforward and well signposted.

Practical Tips on Visiting Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

Suggested tips: Take a slow circuit around the piazza before sitting down, so you can better appreciate the oval shape and spot Roman stonework reused in the lower walls.
Best time to visit: Early morning is peaceful and great for photos without crowds, while late afternoon and evening bring the liveliest atmosphere on the terraces.
Entrance fee: Free - The piazza is a public square with access at all times.
Opening hours: Open 24/7 as part of Lucca’s historic centre; individual cafés and shops keep their own hours.
Official website: https://www.visittuscany.com/it/attrazioni/lanfiteatro-romano-di-lucca/
How long to spend: Plan 30-60 minutes to walk, sit for a drink, and take photos; longer if you stay for lunch or dinner.
Accessibility: Access is via gently sloping streets or short arches; the surface is mostly flat but cobbled in places, so comfortable shoes and a bit of care are helpful for wheelchairs and strollers.
Facilities: The square is ringed with cafés, restaurants, and shops offering seating, restrooms for customers, and shade on hot days.
Photography tip: Stand close to one of the gateways and shoot across the piazza to emphasise the curve of the façades, or climb the city walls nearby for a higher-level shot of the oval outline.
Guided tours: Many walking tours of Lucca include Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, adding stories about the Roman arena, Nottolini's redesign, and the everyday life of the quarter.
Nearby food options: Beyond the restaurants in the piazza itself, explore the surrounding streets and Via Fillungo for gelaterie, wine bars, and traditional trattorie serving Lucchese specialities.

Where to Stay close to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

Staying near Piazza dell'Anfiteatro puts you right in the heart of Lucca's most atmospheric quarter. Just a short walk away, Hotel Ilaria offers comfortable rooms and easy access both to the piazza and to the tree-lined city walls. For a more intimate feel, Albergo San Martino sits near the cathedral and makes a charming base within walking distance of the amphitheatre square, San Martino, and San Michele in Foro. If you love staying in historic buildings, Palazzo Alexander places you in a restored palace, with the oval piazza, Guinigi Tower, and Via Fillungo all an easy stroll away.

Is Piazza dell’Anfiteatro Worth Visiting?

Piazza dell'Anfiteatro is absolutely worth visiting, and for many people it becomes their favourite spot in Lucca. It's not just the photogenic oval shape, or the cafés and pastel façades; it's the way Roman history, medieval adaptation, and 19th-century urban planning all coexist in one compact, lived-in space. You can sit with a coffee and think about the 10,000 people who once filled the stands here, watch everyday life unfold in the same footprint, and still be only a few minutes' walk from the walls, towers, and churches that complete the city's picture. As a place to pause and feel the rhythm of Lucca, it more than earns its reputation.

What Other Travellers Say...

Reviews Summary

4.6 (32,334)

Piazza dell'Anfiteatro is an oval square at the heart of Lucca, laid out on the site of a Roman amphitheatre and lined by medieval buildings that now house cafés, bars and restaurants spilling into the open space; it's an atmospheric spot to sit for a drink or wander after exploring the surrounding alleys, though market stalls and event tents (notably during the big October event) can sometimes occupy the center and street-side vendors near the piazza can be tourist-oriented compared with options on nearby side streets.

Graham Pudney

6 months ago

"Quite stu ing from a Roman architecture perspective. The town on Lucca is well worth a visit and this is the centre of the town. The vendors on theamphitheater are very touristy and much better fare can be found on the side streets, as usual in Italian tourist towns...."

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Nancylee Spitzer

2 months ago

"Really interesting to think this was once Amphitheatre. Restaurants spill out all around. But note, that during nearly the whole month of Octoberthere is a big tent rught in the center, obstructing the view. This is used for Event Comic Lucca last week of October, where 250,000 people will descend upon this city...."

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Tomi Valny

6 months ago

"Quite a unique place. Oval square in the middle of the walled city of Lucca was a Roman amphitheater back in ancient times and with its destruction,houses were build on its place on the same plot, so the houses are build facing oval square. Place is accessible via 4 entrances from north, east, west and south, like all streets alignment in old Lucca since Roman times. Place is full of restaurants and bars where one can sit and drink aperol and enjoy the wonderful time in Lucca...."

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FAQs for Visiting Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

It is located in the northeast part of the walled historic centre, a short walk from Via Fillungo and easily reached from any of the main city gates.

The visible structure today is mostly later housing and façades, but the oval shape and some reused stones in the lower walls reflect the footprint and fabric of the ancient arena, whose base lies about three metres below current ground level.

Yes, the piazza is a public square with free access; you only pay for anything you eat or drink at the cafés and restaurants.

Many visitors spend 30-60 minutes exploring and relaxing, but it’s easy to linger longer if you decide to have a meal or simply enjoy the ambience.

Yes, evenings are often lively, with locals and visitors filling the terraces, making it a great time to soak up the atmosphere and see the square at its most animated.

Nearby Attractions to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

Guinigi Tower - Medieval brick tower crowned with a rooftop garden of holm oaks, offering panoramic views over Lucca's rooftops.
Basilica di San Frediano - Romanesque church with a striking golden mosaic façade, just a short walk from the piazza.
San Michele in Foro - Beautiful church on the site of Lucca's Roman forum, with a richly decorated façade and busy square.
Lucca City Walls - Renaissance defensive walls now forming a tree-lined promenade around the old town, perfect for walking or cycling.
Cathedral of San Martino - Lucca's duomo, combining Romanesque and Gothic elements and housing masterpieces such as Ilaria del Carretto's tomb and the Volto Santo.

The Piazza dell Anfiteatro appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Lucca!

Moira & Andy

Hey! We're Moira & Andy. From hiking the Camino to trips around Europe in Bert our campervan — we've been traveling together since retirement in 2020!

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