Neak Pean

Temple in Siem Reap

CC BY-SA 4.0 / Mao Piseth

Neak Pean, also known as Neak Poun, is a unique and enigmatic temple built during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1181–1218 AD). Situated on a man-made island in the middle of the vast Jaytataka Baray (lake), hidden among dense woods, the temple stands out for its extraordinary design. It rises from a double circular lotus-shaped base, with the central shrine surrounded by a large basin and four smaller shrines placed at each cardinal point, each connecting to smaller basins.

Located east of Preah Khan Temple and at the heart of the Jaytataka Baray, which spans 3600 by 900 meters, the island of Neak Pean measures 350 meters per side and covers 120,000 square meters. Its perimeter is enclosed by laterite walls with steps at each cardinal point. The temple and basins are at the center of the island, surrounded by auxiliary basins made of different materials, not laterite.

The central shrine, facing east, is adorned with large depictions of Avalokiteshvara on the false doors, with a tri-headed elephant positioned between each one, atop which stands a rearing lion. The shrine uniquely rises from a circular double lotus, intertwined with naga serpents, which also flank a statue of the horse Balaha. In Buddhist legend, Balaha, a prior incarnation of Avalokiteshvara, saves a previous incarnation of the Buddha in the Karandavyuha Sutra.

At each of the four cardinal points, aedicules connect the central basin to the outer basins. These aedicules feature depictions of Avalokiteshvara and symbolic imagery, such as a palace scene in the pediment. Each aedicule is topped by a four-sided chaitya, again depicting Avalokiteshvara. The most striking feature of these aedicules is their canalization, which allowed water to flow from the central basin into the aedicules, over a pedestal, and out of spouts in the shape of a lion’s head (south), a horse’s head (west), an elephant (north), and a human head (east).

Around the edges of the four outer basins are simple laterite vestibules, each housing small edifices and numerous pedestals. Some of these pedestals remain today. It is believed that these structures housed the 14 divinities mentioned in an inscription found at the nearby Preah Khan Temple.

Visiting Neak Pean

The site is open from 7:30 AM to 5:30 PM, and an Angkor Pass is required for entry. The temple is accessed by a walkway from the center of the northern side of Jaytataka Baray, with a large parking area across from the entrance, featuring several stalls selling drinks and snacks. To capture the intricate details of the reliefs on the central shrine or the aedicules, a zoom lens will be helpful.

Scenic Nature Trail

While the temple can be explored in a short time, visitors with more time can enjoy a scenic nature trail that circles the outer edge of the island. Bench seats along the path provide a peaceful view of the Jaytataka Baray. The trail starts near the newly restored northern landing and follows the outer edge, where you can see the laterite retaining wall of the island.

History

Neak Pean is attributed to the 12th century and King Jayavarman VII, who also commissioned the nearby Preah Khan Temple. It is interesting to note that during initial restoration work, researchers observed that the false doors of the central temple were likely sealed off at a later date, and stone masonry was recycled.

The site is believed to represent Lake Anavatapta from Buddhist cosmology—considered the source of all water and the home of the naga. Jean Boisselier’s article, listed below, offers more insight into the Khmer interpretation of this concept. The Harvard Art Museum also holds a scroll depicting Lake Anavatapta, which has notable similarities to this site.

Originally, the temple would have been accessed by boat, with steps in the outer laterite wall at each cardinal point, originally guarded by stone elephants. On the western side of the baray, there is a terrace/jetty leading to a bollarded causeway that connects to the east entrance of Preah Khan.

Restoration

Initial research and clearance of the site were carried out by Henri Marchal in 1924, with restoration through anastylosis by Maurice Glaize in 1938. More recently, in 2022, APSARA completed further restoration work, including a new access bridge for visitors. Illustrations and restitutions by Marchal in 1926 provide valuable references for the site’s original design.

The Neak Pean appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Siem Reap!

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