Bergerac: The Complete Guide

CC BY-SA 2.0 / Benjamin Smith

Bergerac, set along the gentle curves of the Dordogne River in the heart of the Dordogne department of Nouvelle-Aquitaine, makes a relaxed yet vibrant base for exploring southwestern France. Begin your day wandering the lively Old Town, where half-timbered houses and pastel façades line cobblestone streets. Pop into boutiques selling local wines and duck-fat-cooked delicacies, then pause at a riverside café on Place de la Mirpe for a café crème and a view of moored gabarres drifting downstream.

For an active outing, rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard at the quay and glide beneath ancient bridges toward wooded riverbanks. Cyclists will also delight in following the Voie Verte greenway, a mostly traffic-free path that threads through sunflower fields and quaint villages. Along the way, plan a picnic of Bergerac’s signature Côtes de Bergerac rouge paired with fresh goat cheese while reclining under the shade of plane trees.

As evening falls, Bergerac’s gastronomic scene comes alive. Seek out a bistro on Rue des Maréchaux for a glass of Monbazillac dessert wine alongside seared foie gras, or head to the Quai Cyrano for al fresco dining overlooking the water. Whether you’re savoring a multi-course meal in a stone-walled dining room or enjoying live jazz in a lively brasserie, Bergerac offers a warm welcome and an authentic taste of Dordogne living.

History of Bergerac

Bergerac in Antiquity and Gallo-Roman Times

Evidence of settlement around Bergerac dates back to pre-Roman tribes, but it truly flourished under Roman rule as a river port and market center. Archaeological finds—pottery shards, coins and remnants of road networks—point to a thriving trade in grain, oil and local timber. The layout of ancient streets can still be traced beneath later medieval development, hinting at the town’s early importance as a hub between inland Gaul and Mediterranean ports.

Bergerac in the Early and High Middle Ages

Following the fall of the Western Empire, Bergerac came under various feudal lords who fortified the river crossing and established a castellum atop the citadel hill. By the 11th century, the town had grown around its ramparts, with merchants’ houses lining narrow lanes radiating from the central market square. Pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela passed through, bolstering the local economy and prompting the founding of churches and hospices.

Bergerac during the Hundred Years’ War

Bergerac found itself on the front lines of the Anglo-French struggle throughout the 14th century. In 1345 it fell to English forces under Henry of Grosmont, becoming a garrison town for several decades. Trade in wine and wool continued under shifting allegiances, even as fortified walls were reinforced and new towers added. When the French crown regained control in the mid-15th century, the damage of sieges gave way to a period of rebuilding and population recovery.

Bergerac in the Renaissance and Early Modern Era

The 16th and 17th centuries saw Bergerac’s merchants invest in grand hôtels particuliers, with sculpted doorways and mullioned windows reflecting newfound prosperity. Religious tensions of the Wars of Religion left their mark in occasional skirmishes, but civic leaders maintained relative peace. By the late 17th century, river traffic had expanded, and the town’s riverfront quays were lined with warehouses storing Bordeaux-bound barrels of its distinctive red and sweet white wines.

Bergerac during the Revolution and 19th Century

Revolutionary fervor in 1789 brought the abolition of feudal dues and the transformation of the old parlement building into a municipal hall. Under the Napoleonic administration, Bergerac was designated a sous-préfecture, spurring investments in roads and bridges. The arrival of the railway in 1853 further integrated the town into national networks, enabling easier export of wine and agricultural produce and prompting the growth of surrounding villages into suburbs.

Bergerac in the 20th and 21st Centuries

The two world wars left their imprint in memorials and monuments honoring local resistance fighters and war casualties. Post-war reconstruction modernized the riverfront and revitalized the old quarter, with careful efforts to restore half-timbered façades. In recent decades, tourism has blossomed around wine tourism, river cruises and literary pilgrimages inspired by Cyrano de Bergerac. Today, Bergerac balances its layered past with contemporary festivals, film screenings and a burgeoning scene of artisan markets.

Visiting Bergerac for the first time and wondering what are the top places to see in the city? In this complete guide, I share the best things to do in Bergerac on the first visit. To help you plan your trip, I have also included an interactive map and practical tips for visiting!

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1. Bergerac Église Notre-Dame de Bergerac

Rising above the quayside, the Église Notre-Dame is a striking example of 14th- and 15th-century Gothic architecture, its pointed arches and intricate stone tracery illuminated by stained-glass windows. Wander inside to admire the vaulted ribbed ceiling and the carved wooden choir stalls, then pause at the small side chapels where weathered frescoes depict scenes from the Passion. Entry is free; the church is open daily from 9 am to 6 pm.

Outside, the church plaza offers views of the Dordogne River and the old gabarre boats. Early morning light casts long shadows across the façade, making it an ideal spot for photography before the day’s bustle begins.

2. Bergerac Maison des Vins – Musée du Vin de Bergerac

Housed in a restored 18th-century merchant’s lodge, the Maison des Vins presents the story of Bergerac’s wine heritage through interactive displays of oak barrels, historical maps and traditional winemaking tools. A tasting bar allows you to sample regional appellations—Monbazillac, Pécharmant and Saussignac—alongside guided explanations from local sommeliers. Admission is free; tastings cost from €5 per flight. Open Monday–Saturday 10 am–12 pm and 2 pm–6 pm.

After exploring the exhibits, step into the courtyard shaded by century-old arches. On weekends, workshops on food pairing and cellar techniques are offered, perfect for deepening your appreciation of Dordogne’s diverse vintages.

3. Bergerac Dordogne Gabarre River Cruise

Board a traditional gabarre boat for a 45-minute cruise along the Dordogne, drifting beneath medieval bridges and wooded riverbanks. The narrated tour (€12 for adults, €6 for children) departs from Quai Cyrano at 11 am, 2 pm and 4 pm daily (April–October).

As you glide downstream, listen for the call of kingfishers and watch herons fishing in the shallows. Sunset cruises offer a different perspective, with golden light reflecting off the water and the silhouette of Bergerac’s rooftops rising above the trees.

4. Bergerac Place Gambetta Market

Twice a week on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 7 am to 1 pm, Place Gambetta transforms into a bustling market of food stalls and artisan crafts. Here, crates of local walnuts, foie gras, truffles and fresh produce are laid out under colourful canopies, while bakers offer warm fougasse and almond croissants. Entry is free.

Local vintners often set up tasting stands, pouring glasses of Côtes de Bergerac rouge and sweet white Monbazillac. As you wander the aisles, stop at a café terrace overlooking the square for a café crème and a front-row seat to daily Dordogne life.

5. Bergerac Old Town Self-Guided Walking Tour

Download a free map from the tourist office and follow a 2-km loop that weaves through half-timbered houses, hidden courtyards and narrow lanes radiating from the central Place de la Mirpe. Look for carved wooden beams and wrought-iron lanterns that date back to the 15th century, and pause at small squares where locals gather for pétanque or aperitifs.

Informational plaques on building façades recount their medieval origins, while intermittent viewpoints offer glimpses of the river and surrounding vineyards. The self-paced route takes about 90 minutes, but you can linger at cafés or boutiques along the way.

6. Bergerac Château de Monbazillac

Perched on a hill 5 km south of the town centre, Château de Monbazillac is renowned for its sweet white wines and Renaissance architecture. Guided tours (€6 including tasting) run daily 10 am–6 pm. Explore the grand halls, period furniture and the vaulted cellars before sampling five appellations of Monbazillac in the château’s tasting salon.

Wander the manicured gardens and admire panoramic views over sun-drenched vineyards. In summer, the château hosts open-air concerts on the terrace, where music drifts across the vines as you sip barrel-aged dessert wines.

7. Bergerac Musée du Tabac

Set in a former tobacco factory, the Musée du Tabac traces the industry’s arrival in the 17th century and its impact on Bergerac’s economy. Exhibits include antique rolling machines, advertising posters and a reconstructed tobacconist’s shop. Admission €5; open Tuesday–Sunday 10 am–12 pm and 2 pm–6 pm.

A guided demonstration (extra €2) shows the hand-rolling techniques once taught to local apprentices. The museum shop sells artisanal pipes, cutters and local tobacco blends for visitors wishing to take home a fragrant souvenir.

8. Bergerac Dolmen de Graveyrou

Just 4 km northwest of the centre, the Dolmen de Graveyrou is a remarkable prehistoric burial chamber of massive capstones supported by upright slabs. Accessible via a short woodland trail, the site is open year-round from dawn until dusk and is free to visit.

Under the canopy of oaks, the dolmen’s moss-covered stones evoke the remote rituals of Neolithic communities. Interpretive panels explain the site’s archaeological significance and the broader network of megaliths dotting the Dordogne landscape.

9. Bergerac Petit Train Touristique

The Petit Train offers a comfortable 50-minute guided loop through Bergerac’s historic quarters, quays and hillside viewpoints. Tickets are €6 for adults and €3 for children, with departures at 10 am, 11 am, 2 pm and 4 pm (April–October) from Place de la Mirpe.

Padded seats and large windows ensure a pleasant ride even on warm afternoons. Recorded commentary in multiple languages highlights architectural gems and local legends, making it an ideal choice for families or those seeking an overview before exploring on foot.

10. Bergerac Parc de Pombonne

Located 6 km west of town, Parc de Pombonne is a 60-hectare woodland reserve of oak and chestnut groves, intersected by walking trails and picnic clearings. Open daily from 8 am to sunset; entry is free.

The park’s circular paths range from gentle strolls to 5 km loops, passing wildflower meadows and viewpoints overlooking the Dordogne valley. Birdwatchers may spot owls and woodpeckers among the trees, while shaded benches invite visitors to rest and absorb the peaceful atmosphere.