Périgueux: The Complete Guide

CC BY-SA 4.0 / Yiannis Vacondios

Périgueux, nestled in the rolling hills of the Dordogne department in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, offers a delightful blend of urban charm and verdant countryside. Start your day with a stroll through its bustling market halls on Place de l’Ancien Marché aux Grains, where local producers display vibrant arrays of walnuts, foie gras, wild mushrooms and regional wines. Quaint cafés spill onto the surrounding streets, making it easy to linger over a café crème and freshly baked croissant as the town awakens.

When you’re ready to explore, wander the pedestrianized lanes of the Vieille Ville, where pastel façades and flower-draped balconies frame artisan boutiques and bistros. Be sure to pause at the riverbanks of the Isle for scenic views and perhaps a riverside picnic of local cheeses and charcuterie. Bike rentals along the Quai Tourny invite you to follow the gentle curves of the river through nearby parks and gardens, with leafy paths leading to hidden benches and quiet groves.

As evening falls, Périgueux’s culinary scene comes alive, showcasing the finest of Dordogne’s gastronomy. Family-run bistros offer truffle-studded omelettes and grilled magret de canard, while more contemporary kitchens experiment with creative takes on cassoulet and duck confit. Finish your night on a terrace overlooking the flooded mill stream of the ancient Isle Canal, sipping a glass of Bergerac Rosé as twinkling lights reflect on the water and the gentle hum of the town drifts through the air.

History of Périgueux

Périgueux in Antiquity

Long before medieval ramparts rose, Périgueux thrived as the Gallic settlement of Vesunna under Roman rule. By the 1st century AD, a monumental temple dedicated to the protective goddess Vesunna crowned the town’s curving hilltop, while paved streets, baths and an amphitheater served a population drawn by fertile lands and strategic river crossings. Luxurious villas dotted the surrounding countryside, their mosaics and hypocausts a testament to the region’s prosperity under Pax Romana.

Périgueux in the Early Middle Ages

With the fall of Rome, the once-urban center contracted around the bishop’s seat atop the old Roman forum. In the 5th and 6th centuries, Périgueux became a key episcopal stronghold, its nascent cathedral built over the ruins of pagan sanctuaries. Successive waves of Visigothic and Frankish influence left traces in carved capitals and early baptisteries, even as local counts asserted control over trade routes connecting distant duchies.

Périgueux in the High and Late Middle Ages

The 11th and 12th centuries saw Périgueux rebound as a bustling market town on pilgrim routes, its carved stone gateways and timber-framed houses lining newly fortified walls. Rivalries between viscounts and bishops shaped civic life, while the Hundred Years’ War brought both English occupation and French reconquest; the city’s vaulted cellars sheltered refugees during sieges, even as merchants continued to trade leather and fine cloth northward.

Périgueux in the Renaissance and Early Modern Period

Peaceful stability in the 16th century allowed Périgueux’s merchants to invest in ornate hôtels particuliers, their façades adorned with sculpted lintels and mullioned windows. The Wars of Religion, however, tested tolerance, leading to brief clashes that left a few churches damaged but ultimately reinforced the city’s spirit of coexistence. By the 17th century, Périgueux had established itself as a regional judicial center, its Parlement chamber drawing nobility for sessions beneath grand oak beams.

Périgueux in the Revolution and 19th Century

The upheaval of 1789 dismantled feudal privileges, and Périgueux became prefecture of a newly drawn department. Revolutionary fervor repurposed convents and seized church lands, but by the mid-19th century the arrival of railways renewed growth. Quays were embanked, gas streetlights illuminated the streets, and elegant cafés sprang up along boulevards, transforming the urban landscape while awakening interest in preserving Roman and medieval monuments.

Périgueux in the 20th and 21st Centuries

Two world wars brought both hardship and resilience, as residents sheltered evacuees and rebuilt damaged bridges. Post-war modernization extended the city beyond its ancient walls, yet growing heritage consciousness led to the restoration of the Vesunna museum over the Roman temple site in the 1970s. Today, Périgueux balances contemporary commerce and cultural festivals with careful stewardship of its layered past, ensuring each era’s legacy remains visible in stone and story.

Visiting Périgueux for the first time and wondering what are the top places to see in the city? In this complete guide, I share the best things to do in Périgueux on the first visit. To help you plan your trip, I have also included an interactive map and practical tips for visiting!

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1. Périgueux Cathédrale Saint-Front

The soaring domes and intricate façade of Périgueux’s Cathédrale Saint-Front dominate the skyline, inviting visitors to step inside its cool, echoing nave. Begun in the 12th century and remodeled in Neo-Byzantine style in the 19th, the cathedral houses 14th-century stained glass and a carved choir screen. Entry is free; open daily 9 am–6 pm.

Beneath the main floor lie crypts accessible via guided tours (€4; 11 am & 3 pm, April–November), where torchlit vaults preserve medieval fresco fragments and reliquaries. Whether you linger in the light-filled aisles or descend into the atmospheric subterranean chapels, Saint-Front offers a profound encounter with Périgueux’s spiritual heritage.

2. Périgueux Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum

Housed around the remains of a 1st-century domus, the Vesunna museum illuminates daily life in ancient Vesunna. Interactive exhibits showcase mosaics, pottery and architectural fragments unearthed on-site. Admission €7; open Tuesday–Sunday 10 am–6 pm.

After exploring the galleries, step into the landscaped garden where the domus foundations are laid bare beneath glass walkways. Informational panels contextualize the Roman forum, baths and dwellings that once crowned Périgueux’s hill, making Vesunna an essential stop for archaeology enthusiasts.

3. Périgueux Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie du Périgord

Located in the former Bishop’s Palace, this museum presents regional archaeology alongside fine art from the Renaissance to modern times. Permanent collections include medieval statuary and Baroque paintings, while rotating exhibitions highlight local artists. Entry €5; open Tuesday–Sunday 10 am–5 pm.

Stroll through the grand salons, where sculpted capitals and frescoed ceilings frame displays of prehistoric tools and medieval reliquaries. The museum’s courtyard garden offers a serene spot to reflect on centuries of Périgord’s cultural evolution before returning to the galleries.

4. Périgueux Site Archéologique des Arènes de Vesone

Scattered across a grassy plateau, the remains of a Gallo-Roman amphitheater and sanctuary invite free, self-guided exploration. Open 24/7, this open-air site features interpretive panels that reconstruct the arena’s original capacity and ceremonial functions.

Wander among the low stone walls and imagine gladiatorial contests beneath a cheering crowd. At dawn or dusk, the site’s gentle slopes and shaded oaks create a tranquil atmosphere, perfect for picnicking or sketching the outlines of Périgueux’s ancient past.

5. Périgueux Jardin Botanique des Arènes

Once part of the amphitheater grounds, this botanical garden now showcases regional flora—medicinal plants, heritage fruit trees and seasonal flowerbeds. Free entry; open daily 8 am–8 pm.

Meandering paths lead to shaded groves and quiet benches overlooking the river Isle. Educational plaques identify species used in Périgord’s traditional remedies, while sculptural works by local artists punctuate the greenery, inviting visitors to pause and absorb the garden’s harmony.

6. Périgueux Petit Train Touristique

The charming tourist train offers a 45-minute guided loop through Périgueux’s historic quarters and riverbanks. Tickets cost €6 for adults and €3 for children, with departures at 10:30 am, 11:30 am, 2:30 pm and 4 pm (April–October).

Padded seats and panoramic windows provide comfortable viewing as recorded commentary recounts legends and landmark histories. Ideal for families or those with limited mobility, the train highlights hidden corners—including hillside viewpoints—without the effort of a long walk.

7. Périgueux Medieval Walking Tour

Follow a free map from the tourist office (open 9 am–6 pm) to trace a 2-km circuit of the Vieille Ville’s narrow lanes, timber-framed houses and hidden squares. Look for carved lintels, sculpted corbels and discreet plaques that date buildings to the 12th–15th centuries.

Pause at cafés tucked into quiet courtyards for midday refreshments or simply absorb the gentle bustle of daily life. The self-guided route offers plenty of benches and viewpoints, making it easy to set your own pace while uncovering the city’s layered urban fabric.

8. Périgueux Canoeing on the Isle

Rent a kayak or canoe at the riverbank boathouse near Quai Tourny (€15 per hour; daily 9 am–6 pm, April–October) to paddle beneath medieval bridges and past riverside gardens. Rental includes life jacket and basic instruction.

Gliding along the Isle’s calm waters, you’ll spot kingfishers and herons in the early morning light. For a longer adventure, a half-day downstream route loops back via a canal channel, offering gentle rapids and shaded picnic spots along grassy banks.

9. Périgueux Place de l’Ancien Marché aux Grains

On Wednesdays and Saturdays from 7 am to 1 pm, this historic square bursts into life as a market filled with stalls of truffles, walnuts, foie gras and regional wines. Entry is free.

Beyond produce, artisans display pottery, leather goods and textiles under striped canopies. Café terraces overlook the bustle, perfect for people-watching over a café crème or tasting local specialties freshly prepared on-site.

10. Périgueux Moulin du Roc Cultural Centre

Housed in a restored 19th-century mill by the river, the Moulin du Roc hosts film screenings, art exhibitions and live performances. Entry to exhibitions is free; cinema tickets vary (€6–€10); open Wednesday–Sunday 10 am–6 pm.

After exploring contemporary art installations, relax in the riverside café or browse the multimedia library. The centre’s outdoor terrace often features concerts and open-air screenings in summer, making it a vibrant hub for Périgueux’s creative scene.