Cognac: The Complete Guide

CC BY-SA 3.0 / Cobber17

Cognac sits on the banks of the Charente River in the Charente department of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, offering a picturesque blend of rolling vineyards and classic French town life. Arriving by train or car, you’ll immediately notice the elegant stone buildings and the gentle curves of the river as it winds through town. Stroll along the quai for riverside views, stopping to admire the ornate facades of merchants’ houses that hint at Cognac’s longstanding role in trade and craftsmanship.

Your main focus will be the famed cognac houses, and many welcome visitors for guided tastings and cellar tours—places like Hennessy, Rémy Martin, and Otard are within easy walking distance of the town centre. You’ll learn how local eaux-de-vie are distilled and aged, but beyond the vats and barrels, take time to explore smaller, family-run maisons for a more intimate experience. Between tastings, wander the narrow streets of Vieux Cognac, where cafés and boutique shops spill into charming courtyards.

When hunger strikes, sample regional specialties in cosy bistros—think rich crayfish from the river and mushroom fricassée made with local chanterelles. Late afternoons are perfect for a picnic among the vineyards just outside town, pairing fresh chèvre with a glass of fine cognac or local Pineau des Charentes. In the evening, retreat to a converted stone manor or riverside hôtel particulier, where modern comforts meet traditional charm, ensuring your stay in Cognac is as memorable as its world-renowned spirits.

History of Cognac

Cognac in Antiquity

Archaeological evidence points to a Gallo-Roman settlement emerging around the 1st century CE, where early inhabitants cultivated vineyards and traded wine along inland waterways. The settlement’s strategic river access fostered its growth as a modest trading post, laying the groundwork for the town’s enduring association with viticulture and commerce.

Cognac in the Middle Ages

By the 10th and 11th centuries, Cognac had evolved into a fortified market town under the influence of regional lords, who constructed ramparts and a keep to protect burgeoning trade fairs. Local artisans and merchants thrived around the weekly markets, and the town’s parish church became a focal point for emerging social and religious life.

Cognac in the Early Modern Era

The 16th and 17th centuries saw Cognac’s ascent as a centre for distilled spirits, as enterprising local families began refining grape brandies for export. This period of prosperity spurred the construction of elegant merchant houses and chandelier-lit salons, reflecting the wealth generated by the burgeoning eaux-de-vie trade.

Cognac in the 19th Century

The arrival of the railway in the mid-1800s transformed Cognac into a hub of industrial production, facilitating the shipment of cognac to distant markets and bolstering local economies. Although the phylloxera epidemic devastated vineyards in the late century, producers regrouped around cooperative efforts and innovative rootstock grafting to revive their vines.

Cognac in the 20th and 21st Centuries

Twentieth-century challenges—including two world wars and changing global tastes—prompted cognac houses to diversify offerings and strengthen appellation controls. Today, Cognac balances its rich heritage with sustainable viticulture, cellar tourism, and limited-edition releases, ensuring the town’s legacy endures for future generations.

Visiting Cognac for the first time and wondering what are the top places to see in the city? In this complete guide, I share the best things to do in Cognac on the first visit. To help you plan your trip, I have also included an interactive map and practical tips for visiting!

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1. Cognac – Château Royal de Cognac & Maison Otard

Château Royal de Cognac, ancestral seat of Maison Otard, stands as a majestic reminder of the town’s noble past. Housed in a medieval fortress overlooking the Charente, it offers guided tours through grand halls and vaulted cellars where eaux-de-vie mature in oak barrels. The exhibition traces Otard’s evolution from royal residence to spirit house, punctuated by period furniture, portraits and original distillation apparatus.

Tours culminate in a tasting room bathed in warm light, where you can sample Otard’s signature VSOP and XO blends. The château’s panoramic terrace rewards visitors with sweeping views of Cognac’s rooftops and river bends—a perfect photo opportunity.

Entry cost: 11 € (adult) / 8 € (reduced)
Opening times: Daily 10 h – 18 h

2. Cognac – Maison Hennessy

As the world’s largest cognac producer, Hennessy invites guests into its historic cellars beneath the Belle Époque façade. Guided tastings walk you through V.S., V.S.O.P. and rare Paradis expressions, illustrating how oak, time and blending shape each spirit. Informative displays explain the “double chauffe” stills and barrel selection that define Hennessy’s style.

The boutique shop stocks exclusive bottlings and gift sets you won’t find elsewhere. After the cellar visit, pause in the sun-dappled courtyard café for a glass of Hennessy or a chocolate-and-cognac pairing.

Entry cost: 25 € per person
Opening times: Monday–Saturday 9 h 30 – 17 h 30; Sunday by appointment

3. Cognac – Maison Martell

Founded in 1715, Martell showcases its heritage in a sleek, contemporary space where wood-paneled tasting rooms contrast with the original 18th-century cellars below. Expert guides lead small groups through a sensory journey of Martell’s eaux-de-vie, highlighting fruity notes and delicate spice. Hands-on blending workshops let you create a personal cognac blend to take home.

The Martell boutique offers limited-edition millésimes, crystal decanters and branded glassware. After your visit, wander the adjacent Jardin Royal for a quiet moment among flowerbeds and statues.

Entry cost: 22 € (standard tour) / 38 € (blending workshop)
Opening times: Daily 10 h – 18 h

4. Cognac – Maison Rémy Martin

Nestled in a grand 18th-century hôtel particulier, Rémy Martin’s Maison de la Fine Champagne celebrates eaux-de-vie exclusively from Grande and Petite Champagne crus. The immersive tour uses multi-sensory installations: aroma stations, interactive maps and barrel-aging demonstrations. The tasting concludes with a comparative sip of VSOP and XO to discern subtle terroir influences.

For aficionados, the “Cask Explorer” experience descends into the extensive cellars to uncork rare casks, paired with gourmet chocolates. The elegant salons invite lingering over a glass by the fire or browsing exclusive releases in the shop.

Entry cost: 20 € (classic tour) / 45 € (Cask Explorer)
Opening times: Tuesday–Sunday 10 h – 18 h; closed Mondays

5. Cognac – Maison Courvoisier

Courvoisier’s Maison offers a modern twist on tradition, with sleek tasting bars and theatrical cask-racking demonstrations. The “Art of Cognac” tour explores Napoleon’s alleged connection to Courvoisier, displaying period artifacts and archival prints. Sampling sessions guide you through VS, VSOP and rare “Initiale Extra” expressions, each paired with small plates of foie gras or local cheeses.

The shop stocks bespoke bottles adorned with metallic labels and gift boxes. A covered terrace overlooks the river, ideal for savoring a cocktail—try the Courvoisier Sidecar made tableside.

Entry cost: 20 € (standard) / 50 € (premium pairing)
Opening times: Daily 9 h 30 – 18 h

6. Cognac – Église Saint-Léger

Église Saint-Léger, with its Romanesque nave and Gothic chapels, embodies centuries of religious artistry. Inside, marvel at the carved capitals depicting biblical scenes and the soaring rib vaults that bathe the interior in soft light. Occasional organ recitals and choral concerts enliven the sacred space, offering a moving complement to architectural exploration.

The adjacent cloister gardens provide a tranquil spot for reflection. Although entry is free, donations support ongoing restoration of the fresco fragments uncovered in recent years.

7. Cognac – Vieux Cognac Walking Tour

Meander through Vieux Cognac’s labyrinth of narrow streets, where weathered stone façades and wrought-iron balconies whisper of merchant families past. Stop at hidden courtyards, artisan workshops and antique dealers nestled in medieval half-timbered houses. Informational plaques mark former distillers’ homes and merchants’ offices.

The self-guided route includes Place François Ier, lined with cafés ideal for people-watching, and the ancient Porte Saint-Jacques gateway. Audio guides are available from the tourist office for an enhanced narrative.

8. Cognac – River Cruise on the Charente

Glide aboard a traditional bateau-taxis or electric launch for a serene cruise along the Charente. Commentators describe Cognac’s history as you pass under stone bridges, past riverside mansions and vineyard-draped hills. Sunset cruises add a golden glow to the oak-clad cellars lining the quays.

Seasonal departures run from April through October; private charters suit small groups seeking a bespoke experience. No entry fee, but tickets cost around 15 €–20 € per person for a 1-hour cruise.

9. Cognac – Marché de Cognac (Place François Ier)

Every Wednesday and Saturday morning, Place François Ier transforms into a bustling open-air market. Local farmers offer fresh produce—strawberries in spring, mushrooms in autumn—while charcutiers and fromagers display regional meats and cheeses.

Stroll past flower stalls, artisan breads and stalls selling regional specialties like Pineau des Charentes. The convivial atmosphere makes it a perfect mid-morning stop before a cellar tour.

10. Cognac – Voie Verte Cycling Route

Rent a bicycle and tackle the Voie Verte greenway, a converted towpath along the Charente linking Cognac to Angoulême. The flat, traffic-free route winds through vineyards, past watermills and scenic riverbanks.

Bike hire shops near the station offer half-day and full-day rates (from 12 €). Look for pic-nic tables along the way to pause for a snack of baguette, local goat cheese and a flask of chilled Pineau.