Exeter, England: The Ultimate Travel Guide 2025

CC BY-SA 2.0 / Charles Miller

Exeter, located in the heart of Devon, offers a rewarding mix of city life and countryside charm. With its compact city centre, you can explore charming streets lined with independent shops, lively cafés, and a thriving arts scene. The city’s impressive cathedral is a highlight, surrounded by green spaces perfect for relaxing, especially in warmer months. Visitors will find Exeter welcoming and walkable, making it easy to enjoy its character at a relaxed pace.

The city sits close to the River Exe, and the historic quayside is one of Exeter’s most scenic spots. Here, you can hire a bike or kayak, browse antique shops, or simply enjoy the waterside pubs and restaurants. A short walk from the centre brings you to quiet paths along the Exeter Ship Canal, ideal for a peaceful afternoon. The quayside is also known for local markets and live events throughout the year.

Thanks to its location in the southwest, Exeter serves as a brilliant base for exploring Devon. The nearby countryside and coastlines, including Dartmoor National Park and the Jurassic Coast, are all within easy reach. Whether you’re interested in outdoor adventures, cultural activities, or simply soaking up the atmosphere of a well-kept English city, Exeter offers a little bit of everything in a picturesque setting.

History of Exeter

Exeter in Prehistoric and Roman Times

Exeter’s story begins in prehistoric times, with evidence of settlement in the area dating back to the Bronze Age. However, its more documented history starts during the Roman occupation, when it became known as Isca Dumnoniorum. Around AD 55, the Romans established a legionary fortress here, complete with baths, walls, and grid-patterned streets. This early layout would influence Exeter’s later development. As a regional administrative centre, Roman Exeter flourished, playing a key role in trade and military operations in the southwest.

Exeter in the Anglo-Saxon and Norman Eras

Following the Roman withdrawal, Exeter saw Saxon settlement and grew into a fortified burh by the 9th century. It gained prominence under King Alfred and was one of the few cities defended against Viking raids. The construction of churches and a mint signalled its importance. In 1068, William the Conqueror laid siege to Exeter after it resisted Norman control. Once subdued, the Normans built Rougemont Castle, part of which still stands, cementing their presence and altering the city’s skyline.

Exeter in the Medieval and Tudor Periods

The medieval period was one of prosperity for Exeter, driven largely by the wool trade. The city walls were strengthened, and many medieval churches were built. Exeter Cathedral, begun in the early 12th century and largely completed in the Gothic style by the 14th century, became a symbol of its wealth and religious stature. In Tudor times, Exeter faced political unrest, most notably during the 1549 Prayer Book Rebellion, when the city held out against rebels who opposed religious reform. This period also saw the rise of its merchant class and development of the city’s underground passages.

Exeter from the 17th to 19th Century

Exeter played a strategic role during the English Civil War, changing hands between Royalists and Parliamentarians. Post-war recovery brought new Georgian townhouses, and the city maintained its position as a commercial hub. The Industrial Revolution affected Exeter less than northern cities, but it saw growth in industries like banking, brewing, and printing. The arrival of the railway in the 19th century further connected Exeter to other major centres, aiding economic expansion and population growth.

Exeter in the 20th Century to the Present

The 20th century brought both devastation and transformation. During World War II, Exeter suffered significant bombing in the 1942 Baedeker Blitz, which destroyed much of the historic centre. Post-war rebuilding blended modern architecture with surviving medieval and Georgian structures. In recent decades, Exeter has emerged as a cultural and academic centre, with its university boosting the city’s profile. Major redevelopment projects, like Princesshay shopping centre and the revitalisation of the quayside, have reshaped Exeter into a vibrant, modern city rooted in deep historical layers.

Visiting Exeter for the first time and wondering what are the top places to see in the city? In this complete guide, I share the best things to do in Exeter on the first visit. To help you plan your trip, I have also included an interactive map and practical tips for visiting!

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