Walking Tour of Dinan & Léhon

Saint-Magloire de Léhon Abbey stands as a beacon of serenity and spiritual heritage in the quaint town of Léhon. Founded in the 9th century by Nominoë, Brittany’s inaugural duke, the abbey’s submission to Marmoutier Abbey near Tours was officially declared in 1093 through a charter signed by King Philip I of France. Throughout the 11th to 13th centuries, the abbey saw a significant increase in its income, bolstering its holdings across various dioceses including Saint-Malo, Dol, Saint-Brieuc, Tréguier, Saint-Pol, Avranches, and even extending to England. This financial prosperity facilitated the abbey’s reconstruction, driven by Peter I, Duke of Brittany.

The turmoil of the French Revolution saw Joseph Bullourde taking possession of the abbey, where he resided for three decades. A pivotal moment in its restoration journey occurred in 1885 when the first stone of the new work was blessed, marking the beginning of a new era for the abbey. However, it wasn’t until 1956 that the convent buildings themselves saw restoration, indicating a lengthy and phased process of renewal and preservation.

The Viaduc de Dinan, an engineering marvel of the mid-19th century, stands as a testament to the architectural ambition and technological prowess of its time. Officially opened to traffic in 1852, this imposing structure stretches 250 meters in length and soars 40 meters above the picturesque Rance River, connecting the hillside community of Lanvallay with the historic walled city of Dinan. Comprising ten elegantly designed arches constructed from grey granite, the viaduct not only facilitated a significant improvement in local traffic flow by offering an alternative route that bypassed the narrow, congested lanes leading to the old port and the ascent of Rue du Petit-Fort, but it also became a symbol of progress and connectivity in the region. Beyond its practical utility, the Viaduc de Dinan is celebrated for its breathtaking views of the river and surrounding landscapes, making it a cherished landmark and a favored spot for both residents and visitors seeking to capture the beauty of Brittany.

The Rance River winds its way through the picturesque landscapes of Brittany, offering a tranquil escape into nature’s embrace. As it flows past Dinan, the river becomes a mirror reflecting the town’s medieval charm, with boats gently bobbing at the docks replacing the cargo ships of yesteryears. The banks of the Rance invite leisurely strolls and picnics, providing a peaceful backdrop for relaxation and contemplation amidst the bustling life of the surrounding towns.

You can rent small electric boats here or take a cruise.  You can also take a cruise from here to St Samson along the Rance. Ride on a comfortable boat while admiring the coast and nature from the water. In the summer months it may be worth booking in advance.

The Maison du Gouverneur was constructed in the late 15th century, this striking half-timbered building was once the abode of a wealthy cloth merchant. Designated as a Historic Monument in 1938 and subsequently restored in the 1950s, the structure has preserved exceptional architectural features that now serve as a unique backdrop for art exhibitions.

The Town Walls of Dinan encase the old town in a protective embrace, standing as a testament to the town’s strategic importance throughout history. These imposing ramparts, dating back to the Middle Ages, offer visitors a chance to walk through history, enjoying stunning views of Dinan and the verdant countryside beyond. A stroll along these ancient defenses is a journey back in time, offering insights into the town’s past and the architectural ingenuity of its people.

Next you will come to the Mercoeur Bastion and then the Porte de Saint-Malo, where you will have to descend. Walk out of the city walls and walk along the Pascalou or La Contrescarpe. You pass the Tour Beaumanoir, navigate across a roundabout and pass Tour Lesquen. As you reach the corner of the city and the Tour Saint Julien you pass back within its walls. At the end of the street, cross back outside the walls. 

Château de Dinan commands attention with its formidable structure, dominating the town’s skyline as a symbol of medieval might and architectural prowess. This castle, with its robust towers and defensive walls, offers a deep dive into the feudal history of Brittany, inviting visitors to explore its chambers and dungeons. The Château de Dinan is not just a historical monument; it’s a gateway to understanding the medieval life, conflicts, and cultures that shaped the region.

Basilique St-Saveur of Dinan stands as a spiritual landmark, boasting a harmonious blend of architectural styles that span centuries. This basilica, with its unique facade and richly decorated interior, houses sacred relics and art, serving as a focal point for pilgrimage and reflection. The Basilique St-Saveur is a testament to the town’s enduring faith and its role in the religious history of Brittany.

La tour de l’Horloge, with its timeless elegance, punctuates the skyline of Dinan. This 15th-century clock tower, offering panoramic views of the town and its surroundings, is a highlight for visitors seeking to capture the essence of Dinan from above. The journey to the top is a step back in time, with each tick of the clock marking the passage of centuries and the stories that have unfolded beneath its watchful gaze.

Place des Merciers encapsulates the bustling market life of medieval Dinan, with its beautifully preserved timber-framed houses and cobblestone streets. This charming square, once the heart of the town’s commercial activities, continues to enchant visitors with its historic ambiance and vibrant energy. Place des Merciers is not just a place to visit; it’s an experience, offering a glimpse into the daily lives of the people who have walked its paths through the ages.

Dating back to the 11th century, Dinan was home to a church dedicated to Saint-Malo, located outside the city’s defensive walls. In the late 15th century, as France sought to extend its control over Brittany, concerns grew in Dinan that the church could be exploited by French forces in the event of a siege. Responding to these strategic considerations, François II, Duke of Brittany, decreed in 1487 that the Saint-Malo church be torn down and reconstructed safely within the city’s walls. The rebuilding effort kicked off in 1490, fueled by generous contributions from the thriving community of Dinan. The new edifice, characterized by its flamboyant Gothic style, was constructed using the region’s distinctive granite.

The influx of financial support for the church waned with the onset of the 16th-century Reformation. Despite receiving a donation from François I, completion of the choir and transept was delayed until the 17th century. Remarkably, the nave remained incomplete for nearly 400 years.

The French Revolution repurposed the then-abandoned church for various secular uses, including a grain market and barracks. Worship was restored to the dilapidated building in 1803. It was not until the mid-19th century, between 1855 and 1865, that the state undertook a significant restoration, rebuilding the nave by drawing on existing plans and the architectural details of the choir, breathing new life into this historic sanctuary.

Château de Léhon, though now in ruins, whispers tales of a bygone era when it stood as a fortress overseeing the strategic Rance valley. The remnants of this 13th-century castle, set amidst the scenic beauty of Léhon, invite imagination to reconstruct its former glory and the historical events it witnessed. Visiting the Château de Léhon is a pilgrimage for those fascinated by the feudal history of Brittany, offering a serene yet poignant reminder of the passage of time and the stories etched into the landscape.