Wat Lam Chang

Temple in Chiang Mai

CC BY-SA 3.0 / Stefan Fussan

Wat Lam Chang is a 14th-century temple located across from Chiang Mai’s oldest temple, Wat Chiang Man. Its name, meaning “Temple of the Tethered Elephant,” originates from its historical role as a place where elephants were housed and fed during medieval times. These elephants, used to carry royal family members rather than as labor animals, give the temple a unique connection to these majestic creatures. Today, it remains a haven for elephant enthusiasts, with numerous elephant-themed images displayed throughout the temple.

Viharn

The viharn faces east-west, with its main facade and front entrance adorned with gold floral motifs over grey mosaic tiles. The entrance to the porch is wide and supported by two decorated columns. At each balustrade leading up to the door are two makkara spitting naga as guardians. The front door is decorated with Devata guardians on a red background, and the lintel above features a gold relief scene of two elephants standing beneath areca palms, with small palace-like buildings in the background—likely a reminder of the temple’s historical use for royal elephants. Between the elephants is a small black Buddha image under a Bodhi tree.

The roof of the viharn has three tiers, decorated with slender chofa, and naga project from the front eaves. The sides of the viharn are richly decorated with gold floral motifs and zodiac animals. A side door leads to a porch with a colorful, sparkling gable decorated with multi-colored glass and a Kirti Mukha (Kala), a mythical Hindu monster often seen in temple decorations.

Inside, the walls are adorned with murals depicting scenes from the Buddha’s previous lives. The altar is home to an extensive collection of over 100 Buddha images, with the central image in the Subduing Mara pose, placed behind a protective screen.

Ubosot and Ho Trai

The first building you encounter upon entering the temple grounds is a two-story structure housing the ubosot on the ground floor and the ho trai (manuscript depository) on the upper floor. The entrance to the ubosot is guarded by two curled naga in brown with gold accents, and Devata figures. The door itself is decorated with guardian figures on a red background. True to the temple’s elephant theme, numerous elephant statues line the boundary wall of the ubosot. Inside the ubosot, a single Buddha image in the Subduing Mara Mudra sits on a pedestal. The walls are adorned with Jataka murals, and the roof is finished in red lacquer with gold-leaf patterns and small Buddha images. Ancient wooden manuscript boxes, around 300 years old, are also displayed here.

Upstairs, the ho trai features a two-tiered roof adorned with gold chofa and ridge finials, with naga projecting from the eaves. The front gable is intricately decorated with gold patterns on a blue background.

Chedis

Wat Lam Chang features two chedis: one ancient and the other more modern. The ancient chedi, located next to the ubosot, is a remnant of the original 14th-century structure. All that remains is the bare brick base, which you can walk around. The base includes a large niche and several smaller ones, but no images are housed there. The walls show signs of erosion, and vegetation grows from the brickwork, lending a sense of ancient decay.

The modern chedi follows the Lanna style, with a square, layered base and a bell-shaped upper level topped with a gold finial and a Burmese-style hti. The base of the bell is decorated with Devata figures, and the bell itself features a mosaic of colored glass in gold, silver, yellow, and green. The finial is adorned with around 40 small bells. At each corner of the chedi are elephant statues, kneeling on their hind legs with trunks extended. These white stucco figures are decorated with colored glass mosaics on the saddles, straps, tusks, and ankles.

Other Features

The temple grounds are also home to a life-size elephant statue placed in the courtyard next to the viharn. The statue is detailed with realistic skin texture and features ornate gilt saddles, cloth, and decorative elements on the tusks and ankles. Numerous other elephant statues are scattered around the temple grounds and walls. The Thais are known for their masterful depiction of elephants, and this temple is a prime example.

At the back of the temple, near the rear entrance, is a sacred stone inscription relic. This stone is set in a tiled base and surrounded by four small brick columns, marking an important historical feature of the temple.

The Wat Lam Chang appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Chiang Mai!

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