Wat Khuan Khama (Golden Horse Temple)

Temple in Chiang Mai

CC BY-SA 2.0 / Coggleswort00

Wat Khuan Khama or Golden Horse Temple is a temple with a distinctive horse theme, originating from a touching story that led to its establishment in 1492. The tale recounts how a horse groom and soldier, serving under General Jaomun Damtuang, decided to donate his land for the construction of the temple after the death of his beloved horse. The temple was named “Khuan Khama” (or “Khunkama” or “Khuan Kama”) in commemoration of the horse.

Entrance and Viharn

At the entrance of Wat Khuan Khama, a unique feature is the presence of 20 gold horses perched atop the boundary wall facing the street, with large pairs placed at each entrance. The viharn, located near the right entrance, boasts a large tiered roof in two sections, decorated with naga heads projecting from the sides. The columns and doors are richly adorned with gold floral motifs on a red background, while chofa finials with small bells hang from the roof, creating a melodic tinkling sound in the wind. Inside, the gold and red color scheme continues with intricate floral decorations on the columns supporting the tiled roof. The murals in the viharn are especially unique, depicting scenes from everyday Buddhist life rather than traditional Jataka tales. These include depictions of Songkran celebrations, monks receiving offerings, and the graceful “Fingernail Dance” from Northern Thailand. Over the main door, a mural shows the Buddha preaching to both monks and laypersons. The altar houses nine Buddha images in different Mudra poses, with the main image in the Northern Thai style, alongside a green glass Buddha, a replica of the famous Emerald Buddha.

Ubosot and Chedi

The ubosot at Wat Khuan Khama faces north-south and is beautifully decorated with gold tracery on a green tile mosaic. The two-tiered roof features naga figures at the ends and is topped with three chofa and an ornate hti ridge finial. Murals depicting the Buddha meditating adorn the area above the door, while numerous gold stucco Devata figures and sema-like stones are placed along the boundary wall. As with many temples, there is a sign indicating that women are not allowed to enter. The chedi at Wat Khuan Khama follows the Lanna style, with a gold finish and a tall, oblong base rising in layers to a small bell, topped with an hti. Each side of the square base has a niche containing a Buddha image, and small horse figures are placed on wooden poles around the chedi, continuing the horse theme.

Ho Rakang and Other Features

Wat Khuan Khama also features a ho rakang (bell tower), an old wooden structure decorated with faded gold mosaic tiles. The bell is suspended by a rope, allowing it to be rung from the ground, and the roof is topped with a gold hti. Near the viharn, tourists are often drawn to a gong and more bells, though their use can disrupt the monks’ daily routines. Additionally, there is a small ho trai on the second floor of the kuti building next to the ho rakang, featuring naga bargeboards and an ornate gable end, though its door and walls are simple and plain. One of the temple’s more distinctive features is a collection of gold stucco figures of animals from the Chinese-Thai zodiac, positioned at the left entrance against the boundary wall. These figures have money boxes underneath them, inviting donations from people according to their zodiac animal, reflecting the cultural importance of zodiac beliefs in Thailand.

The Wat Khuan Khama (Golden Horse Temple) appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Chiang Mai!

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