Largo da Portagem, Coimbra

Square in Coimbra

Largo Da PortagemToll Square — Largo da PortagemToll Square

CC BY-SA 2.0 / ho visto nina volare

Largo da Portagem is one of the best places to visit in Coimbra if you want to experience the true pulse of the city. This elegant square, set beside the Mondego River and next to the Ponte de Santa Clara, blends history, architecture, and everyday life in a way that feels both local and timeless. It is also a great place to visit on a walking tour of Coimbra, serving as a natural gathering point for students, travelers, and residents throughout the year.

Named after its former role as a spot where tolls were once collected on goods entering Coimbra from the south, Largo da Portagem today is a beautifully landscaped urban space adorned with white marble, stone pathways, flower beds, and historic facades. Whether you arrive for a morning coffee, an evening stroll, or to explore the nearby shopping streets, the square offers a warm and inviting atmosphere.

History and Significance of Largo da Portagem
Things to See and Do in Largo da Portagem
How to Get to Largo da Portagem
Practical Tips on Visiting Largo da Portagem
Where to Stay close to Largo da Portagem
Is Largo da Portagem Worth Visiting?
FAQs for Visiting Largo da Portagem
Nearby Attractions to Largo da Portagem

History and Significance of Largo da Portagem

Largo da Portagem's name refers to its historic function as an open-air toll collection point. For centuries, merchants arriving from southern Portugal passed through this area, and taxes were levied on their goods before they continued into the city. As Coimbra grew and expanded, this riverside space evolved from a utilitarian checkpoint into a centerpiece of urban life.

By the 19th and early 20th centuries, the square had transformed into an architecturally refined civic space. Ornate buildings were constructed around the square, including the Bank of Portugal and the Hotel Astoria, both designed by architect Adães Bermudes. Their blend of baroque and early modern styles gives the square a distinctive charm.

The square also became a social and cultural hub. Its proximity to Coimbra's main commercial avenues-Rua da Sofia, Caixa de Coimbra, and the pedestrian Ferreira Borges Street-made it a convenient meeting point. Even today, it remains a lively setting for student festivities, outdoor cafés, and community events.

Things to See and Do in Largo da Portagem

The centerpiece of the square is the statue of Joaquim António de Aguiar, a towering figure in Portugal’s political history. Known as the “Friar-Killer” due to his role in dissolving religious orders in 1834, Aguiar stands on a stone pedestal sculpted by Costa Mota. The monument adds a dramatic historical focal point to the square.

Architecture lovers will enjoy admiring the façades surrounding Largo da Portagem. The Astoria Hotel, with its curved dome and elegant detailing, is one of Coimbra's best-loved landmarks. The Bank of Portugal building, equally striking, reinforces the square's early 20th-century grandeur.

Visitors can also explore the nearby shopping streets that radiate from the square. Ferreira Borges Street offers boutique shops, cafés, and patisseries, while Caixa de Coimbra connects Largo da Portagem to the city's vibrant commercial core. In good weather, outdoor seating invites you to linger with a pastel de nata and watch daily life unfold.

How to Get to Largo da Portagem

Most travelers arrive in Coimbra by way of Porto Airport or Lisbon Airport, both of which have frequent rail connections to the city. For the best deals and a seamless booking experience, check out these flights to Coimbra on Booking.com. Coimbra-B station serves regional and long-distance trains from Lisbon, Porto, and nearby cities. From the station, buses or taxis make it easy to reach the riverside district, with a short walk leading directly into Largo da Portagem. Train schedules and bookings can be found on Omio. If arriving by car, several parking areas are located near the river and city center. From there, it’s a brief walk across pedestrian-friendly streets to the square itself. If you are looking to rent a car in Portugal I recommend having a look at Discover Cars, first, as they compare prices and review multiple car rental agencies for you.

Practical Tips on Visiting Largo da Portagem

Best time to visit Largo da Portagem: Late afternoon or evening, when the square is lively and beautifully lit.
Entrance fee in Euros: Free public square.
Opening hours: Open at all times; cafés and shops nearby follow standard business hours.
Official website: Check Coimbra’s tourism page for updates on local events.
How long to spend: 30-60 minutes, longer if enjoying cafés or exploring nearby streets.
Accessibility: Flat and accessible; ideal for wheelchairs and strollers.
Facilities: Numerous cafés, patisseries, shops, and public seating areas around the square.
Photography tip: Capture the Astoria Hotel façade with the Mondego River behind you for a classic Coimbra shot.
Guided tours: Many Coimbra walking tours begin or end here.
Nearby food options: Plenty of cafés, bakeries, and restaurants surround the square.

Where to Stay close to Largo da Portagem

For classic elegance with river views, Hotel Astoria stands directly on the square and remains one of Coimbra’s most iconic buildings. A boutique alternative within walking distance is Sapientia Boutique Hotel, ideal for exploring both the riverside and university areas. A modern option nearby is Tivoli Coimbra Hotel, offering comfort and easy access to the wider city.

Is Largo da Portagem Worth Visiting?

Yes. Largo da Portagem offers a charming blend of history, everyday life, and architectural beauty. Whether you're passing through on your way to the old town or settling in for a drink at a riverside café, the square offers a warm and vibrant introduction to Coimbra.

FAQs for Visiting Largo da Portagem

Is Largo da Portagem a good place to start exploring Coimbra?
Yes, its central location makes it ideal for beginning a walk through the old town and riverfront.

Are there places to eat near the square?
Yes, numerous cafés and patisseries line the area, many with outdoor seating.

Can I visit the area at night?
Absolutely; the square is well-lit and pleasant for evening strolls.

Is the statue of Joaquim António de Aguiar easy to find?
Yes, it stands prominently at the center of the square.

Is Largo da Portagem close to public transport?
Yes, buses and taxis operate nearby, and it’s walkable from most central points.

Nearby Attractions to Largo da Portagem

Santa Clara Bridge: Offers lovely views of the Mondego River and Coimbra skyline.
Portugal dos Pequenitos: A miniature park celebrating Portuguese architecture and heritage.
Santa Cruz Monastery: Resting place of Portugal's first kings and a major historic site.
University of Coimbra: A UNESCO World Heritage campus with centuries of academic heritage.
Sé Velha de Coimbra: One of Portugal's finest Romanesque cathedrals.

The Largo da Portagem appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Coimbra!

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