Fanal Forest, Porto Moniz (Madeira)

Hike and Natural Phenomenon in Porto Moniz (Madeira)

fanal forest madeira
fanal forest madeira

Fanal Forest is the north coast of Madeira at its most mystical: centuries-old laurel trees with gnarled silhouettes, mossy ground that glows after rain, and fog that drifts in and out as if the landscape is breathing. When the mist settles around the oldest Ocotea foetens trees, it becomes one of the top sights in Porto Moniz for travellers who love places that feel more like a storybook than a viewpoint.

It's also often visited on tours from Porto Moniz because it's easy to access from the plateau yet feels wildly removed from the coastline. Even on clear days, the wide-open pastureland and twisted “fairy tale trees” make it worth the drive, but if you catch it in proper fog, it's a Madeira memory you'll measure the rest of the trip against.

History and Significance of the Fanal Forest

Fanal is part of Madeira's Laurissilva ecosystem, the ancient laurel forest that once covered large parts of southern Europe and survives here in exceptional condition. What makes Fanal special is how accessible it is while still feeling elemental: a protected woodland zone set high on the Paul da Serra plateau where cloud, wind, and light change quickly.

The forest’s mood comes from a combination of altitude and exposure. At roughly 1,150 metres above sea level, Fanal frequently sits in low cloud while the coast below is bright and sunny, which is why it can feel like you’ve driven into a different season in under an hour.

It’s also a place where nature and traditional land use overlap. You’ll often see open pasture around the forest edges, sometimes with cattle grazing, which adds to the otherworldly contrast: ancient trees emerging from mist over grassland, with the Atlantic not far away but completely out of sight.

Things to See and Do in the Fanal Forest

The simplest way to experience Fanal is to park at Parque de Merendas do Fanal and walk a few minutes into the main tree area. The “classic” Fanal scene is not a single landmark but a collection of compositions: twisted trunks, branches dissolving into fog, and soft light filtering through a low canopy. If you’re photographing, move slowly and look for layers-foreground branches, mid-ground trees, and a misty background that creates depth without clutter.

Don’t miss Lagoa do Fanal, the small pond that becomes particularly photogenic when the mist is thick. When conditions are right, the pond reflects tree shapes in a way that turns the scene from dramatic to surreal, especially at sunrise when the light is weakest and the fog is most cohesive.

For hikers, Fanal is also a gateway to some of the most rewarding routes in this part of the island. PR 13 Vereda do Fanal is a point-to-point trail (around 10.8 km, typically about 4 hours one way) that links the Paul da Serra plateau with the Fanal area, which means you'll need to plan transport if you don't want a long return walk. PR 14 Levada dos Cedros is a moderate route (commonly walked as an out-and-back or loop variant depending on how you plan it) that threads through lush laurel forest and leads to a scenic waterfall, making it a strong option when you want a “classic Madeira levada” feel with a Fanal finish.

How to Get to the Fanal Forest

Most visitors arrive via Madeira Cristiano Ronaldo Airport (Funchal), then travel inland and northwest to reach the Paul da Serra plateau and the Fanal area. For the best deals and a seamless booking experience, check out these flights to Porto Moniz (Madeira) on Booking.com.

Public transport to Fanal itself is not typically practical, so the most common options are rental car, taxi/transfer, or a guided jeep tour that includes the plateau and north-coast stops.

If you're travelling by car, the drive from Funchal is usually around one hour, and the simplest approach is to aim for Parque de Merendas do Fanal for parking and quick access to the forest and nearby viewpoints. If you are looking to rent a car in Portugal I recommend having a look at Discover Cars, first, as they compare prices and review multiple car rental agencies for you.

Practical Tips on Visiting the Fanal Forest

  • Suggested tips: Arrive early and be flexible with timing; fog can roll in and out quickly, and waiting 10-15 minutes can completely change the scene.
  • Best time to visit: Early morning for the highest chance of mist and the softest light; clear afternoons are great for wider landscape views and easier hiking.
  • Entrance fee: Free.
  • Opening hours: Always open (outdoor natural area).
  • How long to spend: 45-90 minutes for a photography-focused wander; half a day if you add a levada walk or a longer plateau hike.
  • Accessibility: Short distances from the parking area are manageable, but surfaces can be uneven, muddy, and slippery in fog or rain.
  • Facilities: Limited; there may be picnic areas and basic amenities nearby, but plan water, snacks, and layers as if you’re heading into changeable mountain weather.
  • Photography tip: Bring a lens cloth and protect your camera; mist can bead on glass quickly, and backlit fog works best when you expose for highlights and let shadows fall naturally.
  • Guided tours: Jeep tours are a strong alternative if you don’t want to drive mountain roads or you want multiple plateau stops bundled into one day.
  • Nearby food options: Eat before you arrive or plan for a meal in Porto Moniz or São Vicente afterward; Fanal is best treated as a nature stop, not a dining destination.

Where to Stay close to the Fanal Forest

Because Fanal is a high plateau stop rather than a village, the best places to stay are on the north coast where you can reach the forest early, return easily if conditions change, and still have restaurants and services nearby. Porto Moniz is a convenient base for dawn and dusk visits, and Aqua Natura Bay puts you close to both the coast and the road up toward the plateau.

For a modern, central option that keeps you near the natural pools and within easy reach of Fanal’s access roads, Studios by Aqua Natura Hotels is a practical base.

If you prefer a quieter north-coast stay with a slightly different perspective on the Laurissilva landscape, Monte Mar Palace Hotel works well for combining Fanal with São Vicente-area stops and viewpoints.

Is the Fanal Forest Worth Visiting?

Yes, especially if you want Madeira to feel mysterious rather than merely scenic. Fanal is not about a single “must-see object” but about atmosphere, and when the fog is right, it delivers one of the most distinctive landscapes on the island.

Even on a clear day, it’s still worth the visit for the ancient tree forms, the plateau setting, and the easy access to excellent hikes nearby. The key is approaching it with flexibility: Fanal rewards patience more than speed.

What Other Travellers Say...

Reviews Summary

4.8 (854)

Fanal Witch Tree in Portugal is a misty, otherworldly forest of ancient, twisted trees where fog, unique light and silence create striking photo opportunities; visitors often spot cows grazing peacefully, and many recommend good shoes for muddy paths and exploring the PR14 hike, with parking and easy car access nearby.

AmarylliS idek
a week ago
"On the way to the forest we came across cows that were so cute! The forest itself is also amazingly beautiful with the dark fog. Great for pictures.Our fault was to not get the right clothes because it was muddy but we didn’t mind...."
Maikki
a month ago
"The trees were beautiful but the best part was the PR14 hike that we took. That was 5/5! Recommend good shoes because it can be quite muddy."
Andrei Bazarkin
4 months ago
"Such a magical place ✨. You walk straight into the misty clouds, and suddenly everything feels different — the air, the light, the silence. The oldtwisted trees look surreal, and the cows peacefully walking around (or sleeping) make it even more unique 🐄🌳 Truly one of those spots you don’t forget...."

FAQs for Visiting Fanal Forest

Yes, it’s a natural area with free access.
Morning tends to be your best bet, especially after a few days of humid or changeable weather.
Plan 45-90 minutes for a relaxed walk, photos, and the pond area.
Parque de Merendas do Fanal is the most straightforward parking point for quick access.
It’s possible via taxi/transfer or a guided jeep tour, but public transport is not usually practical for reaching the forest.
Layers and grippy shoes; it can be cold, windy, and muddy even when the coast feels warm.
No, water levels can vary; it’s most photogenic when there’s enough water for reflections and the mist is present.
They are achievable for many travellers, but they’re still proper hikes; choose based on fitness, weather, and whether you can manage transport for point-to-point routes.
Yes, but drive carefully in fog, bring a torch for low light, and prioritise safety over photography.
Be flexible: if it’s clear, enjoy the landscape; if it’s foggy, slow down and let the atmosphere guide where you walk and shoot.

For Different Travelers

Families with Kids

Fanal can be excellent for families because you can keep it short and still feel like you’ve visited somewhere extraordinary. Park close, walk a simple loop among the “fairy tale trees,” and make it a game for kids to spot the gnarliest branches and the thickest moss patches.

The main thing to manage is weather and ground conditions. Bring warm layers, expect mud after rain, and keep younger children close in heavy fog so the visit stays fun rather than stressful.

Couples & Romantic Getaways

For couples, Fanal is one of Madeira’s most naturally romantic landscapes because it feels intimate even when other travellers are around. In fog, the forest becomes a series of quiet pockets, and it’s easy to find a spot that feels like it’s just the two of you and the trees.

If you want the most cinematic experience, plan for sunrise and accept that you may get wind along with the mist. A slow walk, a few photos, and then a warm coffee back on the coast is a perfect Madeira rhythm.

Budget Travelers

Fanal is a high-value stop because it’s free and genuinely world-class in atmosphere when conditions align. If you’re already renting a car, it’s one of the best “return on effort” places on the island.

To keep costs low, bring snacks and water, pair Fanal with other free north-coast viewpoints, and choose one levada or short trail rather than stacking paid attractions on the same day.

Nearby Attractions to the Fanal Forest

  • Levada dos Cedros (PR 14): A lush levada route through laurel forest leading to a scenic waterfall, ideal for a half-day hike.
  • Paul da Serra Plateau: Wide-open highlands with big skies, shifting cloud layers, and several trailheads for longer walks.
  • Porto Moniz Natural Swimming Pools: Lava-formed basins offering a safer way to swim in Atlantic seawater with dramatic scenery.
  • Miradouro do Véu da Noiva: A classic waterfall-to-sea viewpoint on the north-coast road between São Vicente and Seixal.
  • Seixal Beach: A photogenic black-sand beach framed by green cliffs, perfect for pairing forest atmosphere with coastal drama.

The Fanal Forest appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Porto Moniz (Madeira)!

Moira & Andy
Moira & Andy

Hey! We're Moira & Andy. From hiking the Camino to trips around Europe in Bert our campervan — we've been traveling together since retirement in 2020!

Read our full story here

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Planning Your Visit

Hours:

Always open (outdoor natural area).

Price:

Free.

Address: Fanal Forestry Station, Porto Moniz, Portugal
Porto Moniz (Madeira): 7 km
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