Wat Tung Yu

Temple in Chiang Mai

CC BY-SA 3.0 / Stefan Fussan

Wat Thung Yu (or Wat Tung Yu) is a historic temple in Chiang Mai, believed to be over 500 years old. Its name is said to reference the ceremonial umbrella that signifies the rank of a prince. A plaque near the entrance mentions that the temple is referenced in the poetical work Nirat Hariphunchai, written around 1517.

Royal princes continued to support the temple over the centuries. In 1909, Prince Intawarot Suriyawang commissioned the creation of the tiered umbrella atop the chedi.

Murals and Depictions of Hell

The murals inside the viharn are particularly striking, especially the graphic depictions of hell, which show scenes of torture involving naked men and women. These murals are unique for their size among the temples of Chiang Mai’s old town, though such imagery is fairly common across Thailand.

The Viharn

The viharn of Wat Thung Yu is an impressive structure built on a high base, featuring a three-tiered roof with eagle-shaped chofa finials. Gilt naga heads adorn the corners, and their shimmering bodies form the bargeboards along the roof edges.

The viharn’s entrance is guarded by two nagas with green scales and gilded heads that extend along the balustrades. The porch is supported by half-stone, half-teak columns, while the gable end, though faded, still retains traces of its once-vivid gilt and colored glass designs.

Above the door, murals depict Devata figures standing in the clouds to the sides, while the central panel shows the Buddha delivering a sermon under the Bodhi tree to a large crowd. The arch is formed by the intertwined bodies of three-headed nagas, with a Dhamma wheel placed underneath.

Inside, the viharn is spacious and well-lit, with four large windows on each side. Its tiled floors and walls are adorned with murals depicting scenes from the Jataka tales. Five pairs of red-lacquered teak columns with gilt floral motifs and lotus-shaped capitals support the roof. The intricately carved window shutters feature Deva figures in gold.

The altar is unique, showcasing nine crystal Buddhas in various colors—yellow, red, pink, blue, and green—resembling the famous Emerald Buddha. These vibrant statues sit at the front, contrasting with the traditional gilded images behind them. The principal Buddha image, notable for its serene smile, is accompanied by five smaller images. Behind the main figure, a naga throne enhances its grandeur, set against a mural of the Bodhi tree and depictions of revered monks.

At the back of the viharn, above the main door, the haunting murals of hell depict vivid scenes of punishment and torture, emphasizing the consequences of sin in Buddhist teachings.

The Chedi

The chedi is a classic example of Northern Thai architecture. It features a high square base with indented corners, supporting a smaller square mid-section that transitions into a Lanna-style half-bell shape.

The top is decorated with colored glass and porcelain pieces, though these have faded over time. The pinnacle is adorned with a lotus flower stem made up of two flowers—one inverted and one upright—and topped with a small gilt hti (umbrella).

The chedi is guarded by chinthe lions at its corners. A large niche in the base houses a Buddha image, while a golden cloth is draped around part of the structure. Small shrubs and plants grow from the crevices, adding a natural touch to the weathered design.

The Ubosot

The ubosot, smaller but more elaborately decorated than the viharn, features a two-tiered roof with gilded naga bargeboards and eagle-shaped chofa finials at each apex. The base and walls are built from marble-like stone left unwhitewashed to highlight its natural beauty.

The entrance is flanked by colorful makara figures along the balustrade, each disgorging nagas. Four columns support the porch, which has a richly adorned gable end featuring gilt foliate patterns set against a mosaic of colored tiles. A gilded chofa on a pedestal sits above the lintel. The eaves are decorated with intricate gilt floral designs.

The main door is framed by gilt moldings with floral patterns, while the arch above the door is formed by three nagas on either side, enclosing a Dhamma wheel. The doors themselves are exquisitely carved and gilded, with two Deva figures standing on small elephants.

Wat Thung Yu combines stunning architecture, unique murals, and intricate craftsmanship, offering visitors a glimpse into Chiang Mai’s rich cultural and religious heritage.

The Wat Tung Yu appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Chiang Mai!

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