Pogradec: The Complete Guide

CC BY-SA 4.0 / Pasztilla aka Attila Terbócs

Pogradec is a town on the shores of Lake Ohrid in Southeast Albania. The lake, which is one of the oldest and deepest in Europe at 300 meters, dominates the town’s landscape and atmosphere. On the south and west sides, Pogradec is surrounded by hills, while the northern and eastern sides are bordered by the shimmering lake. Across the water lies the North Macedonian town of Ohrid. Tourism in Pogradec remains relatively low-key, but the town offers a charming, laid-back environment that is ideal for relaxing strolls. Its lakeside park, dotted with benches, invites visitors to slow down and enjoy the views, and the eastern end of town features Pogradec Beach, a long stretch of sandy shoreline perfect for swimming or sunbathing.

Spending time in Pogradec also means enjoying its unique dining experience. Several restaurants have built wooden jetties that extend over the lake, offering guests the opportunity to dine just above the water. Many of these places specialize in traditional fish dishes, with baked speckled trout (Koran) being a local favorite. The blend of fresh air, open water, and rustic flavors makes dining here particularly memorable. In addition to lakeside leisure, visitors can head up the hill behind the town to the ruins of the Castle of Pogradec, an ancient Illyrian settlement. The name Pogradec itself reflects its heritage, combining “Po” (beneath) and “Gradec” (town) to mean “under the town.”

Beyond the town, the surrounding region around Lake Ohrid is full of peaceful villages and scenic landscapes. Lin, Pojskë, Hudenisht, and Tushemisht are all popular places to visit, each offering a glimpse into rural Albanian life and access to quiet lakeside views. Drilon National Park, not far from Tushemisht, provides another lovely excursion, with beautiful springs and calm waterways feeding into the lake. Altogether, Pogradec and its surroundings offer a combination of natural beauty, understated charm, and cultural depth that rewards those who take the time to explore.

History of Pogradec

Pogradec in Ancient Times

The history of Pogradec stretches back thousands of years to ancient times. The area around Lake Ohrid was inhabited by the Illyrian tribe known as the Enchelii. In the 5th and 4th centuries B.C., it became the center of the First Illyrian Kingdom under the leadership of King Bardylis. The strategic location along the lake and fertile lands supported thriving settlements, with fishing and agriculture as the main sources of livelihood. On the hill above the modern town, the ruins of the Castle of Pogradec still bear witness to this early period of fortified life and regional influence.

Pogradec during Roman and Medieval Times

In Roman times, Pogradec found itself near one of the most important routes in the ancient world, the Via Egnatia. This major road connected Dyrrachium (modern Durrës) with Byzantium (modern Istanbul), and passing near Pogradec gave the settlement commercial significance. By the 7th century, the area was occupied by a Slavic tribe known as the Berziti, marking a shift in the cultural landscape. From the 8th to the 14th centuries, Pogradec was caught in a cycle of turbulence as Bulgarians, Byzantines, Serbians, and Albanians contested control of the region. Despite the instability, Pogradec remained a valuable location due to its proximity to the lake and key overland routes, until the area was absorbed into the expanding Ottoman Empire.

Pogradec in Ottoman and Modern Times

Under Ottoman rule, Pogradec evolved into a small but stable lakeside town, known for its fishing, farming, and modest trade. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it became increasingly connected to national movements for Albanian independence and cultural identity. In the 20th century, Pogradec gained further prominence as a retreat for Albania’s elite. It was favored by King Zog I, who spent leisure time there, and later by communist dictator Enver Hoxha, who also appreciated its peaceful setting by Lake Ohrid. Today, traces of these periods remain, blending with the natural beauty that has long defined Pogradec’s enduring appeal.

Visiting Pogradec for the first time and wondering what are the top places to see in the city? In this complete guide, I share the best things to do in Pogradec on the first visit. To help you plan your trip, I have also included an interactive map and practical tips for visiting!

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1. Pogradec Castle

Perched on a hill overlooking the town, Pogradec Castle offers panoramic views of Lake Ohrid and the surrounding landscapes. The site holds historical significance, with remnants dating back to the 5th century BC, reflecting its Illyrian origins. Visitors can explore the ruins and imagine the ancient civilization that once thrived here.

The ascent to the castle is a rewarding experience, especially during sunrise or sunset when the lake shimmers under the changing light. There is no entry fee, and the site is accessible at all times, making it a perfect spot for history enthusiasts and photographers alike.

2. Drilon National Park

Located just a short distance from Pogradec, Drilon National Park is a serene retreat featuring lush greenery, tranquil springs, and a variety of bird species. The park is renowned for its picturesque canals and traditional wooden bridges, offering visitors a peaceful environment to relax and connect with nature.

Boating is a popular activity here, with rowboats available for hire to explore the calm waters. Several cafes and restaurants within the park serve local delicacies, allowing visitors to enjoy a meal amidst the natural beauty. The park is open daily from 7:00 AM to 4:00 PM, and entry is free of charge.

3. Pogradec Beach

Pogradec Beach is a favored destination for both locals and tourists, especially during the summer months. The sandy shores and clear waters of Lake Ohrid provide an ideal setting for swimming, sunbathing, and various water sports. The beach is well-maintained, with facilities such as sun loungers, umbrellas, and nearby cafes.

Evening strolls along the promenade are a delightful experience, offering stunning views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. The beach is easily accessible from the town center, making it a convenient spot for relaxation and recreation.

4. Lin Village and Mosaics

Approximately 20 kilometers north of Pogradec lies the charming village of Lin, known for its traditional stone houses and the ancient mosaics found in the local church. These mosaics, dating back to the 6th century, depict intricate religious scenes and are considered significant examples of early Christian art in the region.

Visitors can explore the village’s narrow streets, interact with friendly locals, and enjoy the tranquil ambiance. The site is open to the public, and while there is no official entry fee, donations are appreciated to support the preservation efforts.

5. Guri i Kamjes

Guri i Kamjes, or “The Stone of Kamje,” is a unique geological formation located southwest of Pogradec. This solitary rock stands prominently amidst the landscape, offering panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and mountains. The area is popular among hikers and nature enthusiasts seeking a peaceful escape.

The hike to Guri i Kamjes is moderately challenging, making it suitable for individuals with a reasonable level of fitness. There are no entry fees, and the site is accessible year-round, providing a rewarding experience for those who make the journey.

6. Royal Tombs of Selca e Poshtme

The Royal Tombs of Selca e Poshtme are an archaeological site located about 40 kilometers from Pogradec. These tombs, carved into limestone cliffs, date back to the 4th century BC and are believed to have belonged to Illyrian kings. The site offers insight into the burial practices and architectural skills of the ancient Illyrians.

Visitors can explore the tombs and the surrounding area, which provides a glimpse into the region’s rich history. There is no official entry fee, but it’s advisable to check with local authorities for any access guidelines or restrictions.

7. Golik Bridge

Golik Bridge is an Ottoman-era stone bridge located near the village of Golik, close to Pogradec. Built in the 17th century, the bridge spans the Shkumbin River and is a testament to the engineering prowess of the time. Its elegant arches and historical significance make it a point of interest for visitors exploring the region.

The bridge is accessible by car or on foot, and there is no entry fee. It’s an excellent spot for photography and appreciating the blend of natural beauty and historical architecture.

8. Shtepia e Miqve

Shtepia e Miqve, or “The House of Friends,” is a cultural center in Pogradec dedicated to promoting local arts and traditions. The center hosts various events, including art exhibitions, musical performances, and workshops, providing visitors with an opportunity to engage with the local community and culture.

The venue is open to the public, and while some events may have entry fees, many are free of charge. It’s advisable to check their schedule in advance to plan your visit accordingly.

9. Mali i Thatë (Dry Mountain)

Mali i Thatë, or “Dry Mountain,” is a prominent mountain range near Pogradec, offering hiking trails with breathtaking views of Lake Ohrid and the surrounding landscapes. The trails vary in difficulty, catering to both casual walkers and experienced hikers. The area’s diverse flora and fauna add to the appeal for nature lovers.

There are no entry fees to access the trails, and the best times to hike are during the spring and autumn months when the weather is mild. It’s recommended to carry sufficient water and wear appropriate footwear for the trek.

10. Local Cuisine and Dining

Pogradec offers a delightful culinary experience, with numerous restaurants and cafes serving traditional Albanian dishes. Freshwater fish, particularly the renowned Koran trout from Lake Ohrid, is a local specialty. Dining establishments range from casual eateries to more upscale venues, catering to various preferences and budgets.

Exploring the local cuisine provides insight into the region’s culture and traditions. Many restaurants also offer outdoor seating with views of the lake, enhancing the dining experience.