Essaouira: The Complete Guide
Designed by a French hostage in 1760, Essaouira (pronounced Essa-wira) is one of the most relaxed towns in Morocco, popular with independent travellers and for those who love the heat but can live without the haggling – a western fantasy in an oriental setting.
Where is Essaouira Located?
Located 109 miles west of Marrakech on a sandy bay, freshened by southwesterly breezes, Essaouira makes for a welcome break on Morocco’s Atlantic coastline, away from the oppressive African heat felt further inland – even in the height of summer.
Why should I visit Essaouira?
Shallow clean water makes it an ideal spot for families, and in the summer wind and kite surfers flood the beaches of the aptly nicknamed “windy city”. It is also a favourite location for surfers to Morocco, with some fantastic surf spots in and around Essaouira.
A town of whitewashed houses with blue shutters where Orson Welles filmed much of his Othello, and more recently, Oliver stone’s ‘Alexander the Great’ with Colin Farrell and Angelina Jolie, where scenes for the Temple of Pallas Athena, Mieza and the Macedonian horse market were filmed. However, (staying on the ‘celeb’ theme a little longer) despite common misconception, Jimi Hendrix did not visit Essaouira until two years after he wrote the song “Castles made of sand”…
All that remains of Essaouira’s commercial boom, following the triumph of steam-over-sail, are the purple ramparts and empty cannons of a bygone age, and the encompassing scents of thuya and lemon woods, fashioned into high quality marquetry by local craftsmen.
It does still have a flourishing fishing industry, and there are of course plenty of excellent fish restaurants to be found. A string of fish stalls line the sea front, serving a variety of fish and seafood dishes, barbequed as you wait. These are very reasonably priced and great fun – choose the fish you would like and pay for it by weight, then sit at a long communal table with the locals and wait for your fish to be grilled to perfection. You can have a side salad and ‘Pommes Frites’ (totally delicious!!) to accompany your chosen Medley, and of course the requisite ‘Moroccan loaf’ is served without question!
Essaouira is an incredibly ‘chilled out’ town, even in Moroccan terms. Enjoy the ‘café culture’ and sit for hours watching the world go idly by, or stroll around the souks where even the merchants seem happy to let you browse without the usual badgering, although your bartering skills will still be required should you decide to make a purchase!
How long should I spend in Essaouira?
We do not generally recommend more than three of four days in Essaouira. It is a small town, and the wind can be incessant and difficult to escape, so unless you are visiting specifically for the wind sports on offer, three full days tend to be enough for most people. A very popular itinerary for those wanting more than a short break is to combine Essaouira with a few nights in Marrakech and / or the High Atlas Mountains.
Tree-climbing goats of Essaouira
Essaouira is also a center of argan oil production. It has become a tourist attraction due to the tree-climbing goats who are unique to the region, as argan trees are the only type the goats climb. These goats, which are native to Morocco, are known for their ability to climb trees in search of fruit, particularly the fruit of the argan tree. While the goats’ climbing behavior is partly instinctual, it is also driven by their desire for the sweet and pulpy fruit found in the trees. The climbing skills of these goats are quite impressive, and their ability to climb trees has made them a unique and fascinating feature of Morocco’s natural landscape.
History of Essaouira
Ancient Beginnings of Essaouira
Essaouira, located on the Atlantic coast of Morocco, has a history that dates back to ancient times. Originally known as Mogador, the area was settled by the Phoenicians in the 7th century BCE. They established a trading post here due to its strategic coastal location, facilitating trade across the Mediterranean and Atlantic.
Roman and Pre-Islamic Era in Essaouira
During the Roman period, Essaouira continued to thrive as a trading hub. Evidence of Roman influence can be seen in the ruins and artifacts found in the area. The Berbers, the indigenous people of North Africa, also played a significant role in the region’s development, establishing small communities and engaging in trade.
Islamic Influence and the Almohad Period in Essaouira
The spread of Islam in the 7th and 8th centuries brought significant changes to Essaouira. The city became part of the Islamic empire, and its strategic importance grew. The Almohad dynasty, ruling from the 12th to the 13th centuries, fortified the city and enhanced its role as a commercial and military center.
Portuguese and European Presence in Essaouira
In the 16th century, the Portuguese occupied Essaouira, renaming it Mogador. They built a fortress to protect their trading interests and secure a foothold in Morocco. However, their control was short-lived, and by the mid-16th century, the Saadian dynasty of Morocco recaptured the city.
The Founding of Modern Essaouira
The modern city of Essaouira was established in the 18th century by Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah. He hired the French architect Théodore Cornut to design the city, leading to the construction of its distinctive medina, ramparts, and port. The city was renamed Essaouira, meaning “the beautifully designed.”
19th and 20th Century Essaouira
Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, Essaouira continued to flourish as a key port, exporting goods such as sugar, molasses, and tea. It attracted a diverse population, including Jews, Christians, and Muslims, contributing to its rich cultural tapestry. However, the opening of new ports and the advent of modern transportation led to a decline in its commercial importance.
Essaouira Today
Today, Essaouira is a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its well-preserved medina, vibrant arts scene, and laid-back atmosphere. The city’s history is reflected in its architecture, cultural festivals, and diverse community. Essaouira has become a popular tourist destination, offering visitors a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.
Visiting Essaouira for the first time and wondering what are the top places to see in the city? In this complete guide, I share the best things to do in Essaouira on the first visit. To help you plan your trip, I have also included an interactive map and practical tips for visiting!
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Best places to See in
1. Explore the Medina of Essaouira
The Medina of Essaouira is a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its narrow streets, vibrant markets, and historic architecture. It’s a perfect place to wander, shop for local crafts, and experience the city’s rich culture.
2. Visit the Essaouira Citadel
The Essaouira Citadel, also known as the Skala de la Ville, offers stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean and the city. The fortifications and cannons provide a glimpse into the city’s military history.
3. Stroll Along the Essaouira Beach
Essaouira Beach is famous for its long stretch of golden sand and strong winds, making it a popular spot for kite surfing and windsurfing. It’s also great for a relaxing walk or a picnic by the sea.
4. Discover the Essaouira Fishing Port
The bustling fishing port of Essaouira is a hub of activity where you can watch fishermen bring in their catch, see traditional wooden boats, and enjoy fresh seafood at local eateries.
5. Admire the Moulay Hassan Square
Moulay Hassan Square is the main square in Essaouira, surrounded by cafes, restaurants, and shops. It’s a lively spot for people-watching, enjoying street performances, and soaking up the local atmosphere.
6. Visit the Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah Museum
This museum is housed in a historic building and showcases the cultural and historical heritage of Essaouira. The exhibits include traditional clothing, musical instruments, and archaeological artifacts.
7. Explore the Jewish Quarter (Mellah)
The Mellah, or Jewish Quarter, of Essaouira is a fascinating area with narrow alleys, historic synagogues, and unique architecture. It’s a testament to the city’s multicultural history.
8. Enjoy the Local Cuisine
Essaouira is known for its delicious seafood and Moroccan cuisine. Be sure to try dishes like grilled sardines, tagine, and couscous at local restaurants and food stalls.
9. Take a Day Trip to Diabat
Just a short drive from Essaouira, the village of Diabat offers a peaceful escape with beautiful beaches, historic ruins, and the famous Jimi Hendrix Cafe, named after the legendary musician who visited the area.
10. Experience the Gnaoua World Music Festival
If you visit Essaouira in June, don’t miss the Gnaoua World Music Festival. This vibrant event showcases traditional Gnaoua music along with international genres, attracting artists and visitors from around the world.
