Bangkok's Old Town: A Self-Guided Tour (with Maps!)
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Before Bangkok became the bustling capital we know today, the Chao Phraya River took a dramatic horseshoe-shaped bend to the west, winding around a small area of olive groves. This settlement was first established by the Khmer as a residence, and later, in the 1500s, by the Thais, who named it Bang Makok, or “Olive Town.” To ease boat travel to the Siamese capital of Ayutthaya, located 50 miles north, a canal was constructed, straightening the river’s path. Bang Makok grew slowly, joined by a small working-class community of Chinese immigrants on the river’s eastern bank.
In 1767, following the fall of Ayutthaya to the Burmese, General Taksin saw potential in Wat Arun and the surrounding area. After ascending to the throne, Taksin moved the Siamese capital to Bang Makok, renaming it Thonburi. His reign lasted just 15 years before the Chakri dynasty came to power in 1782 under King Rama I.
One of King Rama I’s first decisions was to relocate the capital across the Chao Phraya River to the east. There, he established a grand palace complex modeled after the ancient capital of Ayutthaya and named the new city Rattanakosin. To make way for this ambitious project, the Chinese settlers living in the area were relocated a few miles south to what is now Bangkok’s Chinatown. The transition was relatively smooth, and Rattanakosin laid the foundation for the modern city of Bangkok, or “Island City.”
Today, the Chakri dynasty remains the royal family, serving as symbolic figureheads of Thailand. While the monarchy endures, the country is governed by an elected president, reflecting the evolution of the nation’s political system.
Temple of the Dawn (Wat Arun)
The origins of Wat Arun remain shrouded in mystery, though it is known that a Khmer-style prang (tower) stood at this site long before the Siamese (Thai) settled in the area during the 1500s. At that time, the Chao Phraya River formed a massive horseshoe bend around the temple and nearby olive groves. These groves inspired the village’s name, Bang Makok (“Olive Town”), and the temple became known as Wat Makok. The village remained small, overshadowed by Siam’s capital, Ayutthaya, located 50 miles to the north. However, during the reign of King Narai (1656–1688), the French were permitted to build a fort near the temple. This sparked controversy, with critics accusing the king of being overly foreign-friendly. In 1688, a 40,000-strong uprising destroyed the fort, preserving Siam’s independence and averting colonization.
Nearly a century later, Ayutthaya fell to Burmese forces in 1767, leaving the once-great city in ruins. General Taksin rallied Siamese forces, expelled the Burmese, and became king. Legend has it that during the war, General Taksin glimpsed Wat Makok at dawn, which inspired him to relocate the capital to Bang Makok, renaming it Thonburi. The temple was renamed Wat Arun, after Aruna, the Hindu god of dawn. King Taksin built his Royal Palace (now the site of the Royal Thai Naval Academy) next to Wat Arun and temporarily housed the Emerald Buddha there from 1778 until his death four years later.
Following Taksin’s death, the Chakri dynasty assumed the throne with King Rama I (1782–1809). The new king moved the capital across the river to Rattanakosin, built the Grand Palace, and transferred the Emerald Buddha to its new home. Wat Arun was largely neglected during this period but was revived under King Rama II (1809–1824) and King Rama III (1824–1851), who undertook extensive restorations. During these upgrades, the central prang was significantly heightened, crowned with a seven-pronged trident symbolizing Shiva, and adorned with intricate patterns made from colorful Chinese porcelain and rows of detailed statues. Representing the mythical Mount Meru—the center of the universe in Hindu cosmology—the main tower grew to an impressive 262 feet. Four smaller towers at the corners were also added, dedicated to Phra Phai, the Hindu god of wind, as protectors of the temple.
Wat Arun’s exterior is a treasure trove of artistry, with intricate statues and decorations covering nearly every surface. Upon entering the temple grounds, visitors are greeted by two towering yaksha (demon) statues from the Hindu epic Ramayana. The white guardian, Sahassateja, and the green guardian, Tasakanth, stand vigilant at the ordination hall, warding off evil spirits. Around the base of the central prang, sculptures of animals and Chinese soldiers act as both guards and structural supports. Climbing the steep steps to the upper levels brings visitors close to four statues of the Hindu god Indra riding the three-headed elephant, Erawan.
The views from the upper terraces are breathtaking, offering panoramas of the Chao Phraya River and surrounding cityscape. For the most striking views of Wat Arun itself, visit at dawn, when the porcelain decorations shimmer in the sunlight, or at dusk, when the temple is bathed in a stunning combination of sunset hues and soft accent lighting.
Location: Wat Arun, Bangkok, Thailand | Hours: 8:00 AM to 5:30 PM | Price: 50 Baht to enter the temple grounds.
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Chao Phraya River
You haven’t truly arrived in Bangkok until you’ve cruised the Chao Phraya River on a traditional Long Tail Boat. Stretching almost the entire length of Thailand, the Chao Phraya serves as Bangkok’s main artery, cutting through the city of canals. While the river may be noisy, congested, and not the cleanest, it offers an unforgettable way to experience Bangkok’s vibrant culture.
Though passenger ferries are available at most major piers, we recommend hiring a traditional Long Tail Boat (Ruea Hang Yao in Thai). These sleek, low-profile boats are built for speed, even in shallow waters, and can carry both people and cargo. A unique feature of modern Long Tail Boats is their use of car or truck engines instead of standard boat motors. The engine’s long drive shaft doubles as a rudder, giving the driver a full 180-degree range of steering—a vital feature on the bustling river. The sight of drivers standing near the motor’s exposed, high-speed fan blades adds a thrilling edge to the experience.
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Wat Pho
Wat Pho, also known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, is Bangkok’s oldest Buddhist temple and one of its largest, located just behind the majestic Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Constructed approximately 200 years before Bangkok became Thailand’s capital, the temple is renowned for its massive Reclining Buddha statue and its unparalleled collection of Buddha images. Wat Pho underwent a near-total reconstruction during the reign of King Rama I when the capital shifted to Bangkok.
The highlight is the gold-plated Reclining Buddha, an awe-inspiring statue that measures 46 meters in length and 15 meters in height. The statue symbolizes the Buddha’s transition into nirvana. Its feet and eyes are delicately inlaid with mother-of-pearl, while the soles display 108 auspicious scenes, blending Chinese and Indian artistic influences.
Exploring Wat Pho’s Rich Complex
Wat Pho is divided into two main walled compounds, separated by Sanamchai Road. The northern section houses the Reclining Buddha, a traditional Thai massage school, and a hall featuring 394 bronze Buddha images. Around the complex, you’ll also find 91 chedis (stupas) of various sizes, along with a beautifully decorated library adorned with porcelain figures and pagodas. In total, Wat Pho’s grounds host over 1,000 Buddha images, many of which were brought from the ancient capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai.
Wat Pho is more than just a temple—it is considered Thailand’s first university and a center for learning traditional Thai massage. Unlike most therapeutic massages, this practice is invigorating and incorporates yoga-inspired movements to alleviate stress and improve blood circulation. Visitors can enjoy an authentic massage here, a draw for locals and international celebrities alike.
Additional offerings include traditional Thai dance and music lessons on Sundays, as well as consultations with astrologers and palm readers. Visitors can also receive blessings from monks for a small donation, contributing to the temple’s upkeep.
Visitor Tips
- Bring the exact cash amount for tickets, as no change is provided.
- Budget around 2-5 hours to explore the vast complex fully.
- Admission includes a bottle of water, and refill stations with cool water are available on-site.
- Dress modestly—long pants and sleeved shirts are required for both men and women.
- Shoes must be removed to enter sacred areas.
Location: The Reclining Buddha Wat Pho Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon Bangkok 10200, Thailand | Hours: 8:00 AM to 6:30 PM | Price: Adults: 200 Thai Baht | Website
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Saranrom Palace
This charming palace, with its salmon-pink façade and unique architecture that blends European and Thai influences, was completed in 1866. Originally intended as the retirement residence for King Rama IV, he passed away before its completion. His successor, King Rama V, repurposed the palace, using it as a temporary residence for his sons. Later, King Rama VI transformed the palace into the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in 1926 after it ceased to serve as a royal residence. Today, Saranrom Palace stands as a reminder of Bangkok’s dynamic history and is home to the Museum of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
Adjacent to the palace, you’ll find the peaceful Saranrom Royal Park, originally constructed by King Rama IV. Under King Rama V, the park briefly became an exotic zoo until the animals were relocated to Dusit Zoo. Though no longer a zoo, the park retains much of its original charm, including a striking red fountain, manicured greenery, and tranquil walking paths. It’s a delightful spot to relax after exploring the palace and offers a serene escape in the heart of Bangkok.
Location: Saranrom Palace, Sanam Chai Road, Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand | Hours: 7:30 am-4:30 pm
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Wat Ratchapradi
Wat Ratchapradit, also known as Wat Ratchapradit Sathit Maha Simaram, is a small but historically significant royal temple located near the Grand Palace in Bangkok. It was commissioned by King Rama IV in 1864 as a place of worship for the Thammayut Nikaya monastic order, which he founded. Built on a modest plot of land previously used for coffee plantations, the temple reflects a unique blend of Thai and Khmer architectural styles. Its central feature is the ordination hall, or ubosot, which boasts intricate murals depicting royal ceremonies, lunar calendars, and the solar eclipse—a nod to King Rama IV’s deep interest in astronomy.
Despite its small size, Wat Ratchapradit holds immense spiritual and cultural importance. The temple’s serene atmosphere provides a contrast to the bustling surroundings, making it a peaceful retreat for visitors exploring Bangkok’s historic district. The temple’s grounds include a striking prang (Khmer-style tower), symbolizing Mount Meru, the center of the Buddhist cosmos. Wat Ratchapradit is often overlooked compared to its larger neighbors, but its exquisite artistry and royal connections make it a hidden gem for those seeking a deeper understanding of Thailand’s rich history and traditions.
Location: Wat Ratchapradit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchaworawihan, Saranrom Road, Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand | Hours: 8am until 5pm | Price: Free entry
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Wat Ratchabophit
Wat Ratchabophit, located near the Grand Palace in Bangkok, is a stunning royal temple known for its blend of Thai and Western architectural influences. Built during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) in 1869, the temple features a large central prang, or tower, inspired by the Khmer style, and an ornate ordination hall with elements of Gothic architecture. The temple’s most striking feature is its unique circular-shaped bot (ordination hall), which sets it apart from other temples in the city. This harmonious mix of styles represents the modernization efforts of the era while preserving traditional Thai elements, making Wat Ratchabophit a testament to the evolving nature of Thai art and culture.
The temple grounds are beautifully landscaped, with well-maintained gardens and serene walkways that invite visitors to pause and reflect. Inside the ordination hall, visitors can admire the intricate murals depicting the life of the Buddha, along with the magnificent golden Buddha statue seated within the hall. Surrounding the temple is a serene cloistered courtyard lined with small chedis, which house the remains of important figures. Wat Ratchabophit, though not as well-known as some of Bangkok’s more famous temples, offers a peaceful escape with its elegant architecture and rich historical significance, making it a worthwhile stop for those interested in the city’s royal and religious heritage.
Location: 3 Ratchabophit Rd, Khwaeng Wat Ratchabophit, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10200,Bangkok, Thailand
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City Pillar Shrine (Lak Mueang)
In keeping with Thailand’s deep-rooted superstitions, every Thai city has a City Pillar to bring good fortune. Bangkok’s pillar was erected by King Rama I at precisely 6:45 a.m. on Sunday, April 21, 1782, marking the founding of the Chakri Dynasty and the city’s official establishment. Unlike in some cities like Chiang Rai, where the pillars stand in open spaces, Bangkok’s City Pillar was soon enclosed within a shrine. These shrines became increasingly elaborate over time, with King Rama IV adding a second pillar in the 1850s for extra good luck. During the Rattanakosin Bicentennial Celebration in 1982, the shrine was rebuilt into the impressive structure you see today, topped by a towering white prang.
Location: Bangkok City Pillar Shrine Lak Muang Rd Khwaeng Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon Bangkok 10200 Thailand
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Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)
Enter the Grand Palace Complex through the main gate on the north side of the complex and proceed to the courtyard to purchase your ticket. Once you have your ticket, the ideal starting point is Wat Phra Kaew, followed by exploring the central area of the Grand Palace.
The crown jewel of the Grand Palace complex is undoubtedly Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Enter through the main gate at the temple’s southwest corner, where you’ll immediately notice a dark stone hermit statue. This figure, the Patron of Medicine, is revered by locals who make offerings in hopes of good health for their loved ones. You can join in the tradition by offering incense and lightly touching a dampened lotus flower to your head for good luck. Nearby, look out for the temple’s elephant statues—circling one three times and rubbing its head is said to bring additional fortune.
Once you’ve received your blessings, head to the Upper Terrace to explore its three iconic towers. From left to right, the first is the golden Sri Lankan-style chedi known as Phra Sri Rattana, a dazzling structure believed to house a relic of the Buddha—his breastbone and ashes. The chedi’s gleaming presence is mesmerizing and serves as a focal point of the temple grounds. Nearby, you’ll find a model of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, a reminder of the historic power and reach of the Siamese Empire.
In the center of the Upper Terrace stands the green Phra Mondop, the temple library adorned with mother-of-pearl doors, statues of Chakri kings, and naga guardians with both human and dragon heads. To the right is the Royal Pantheon, a vibrant orange and green structure that is only open to the public once a year in October to honor the founding of the Chakri dynasty. Near the Pantheon, you’ll see smaller golden pyramids guarded by vividly colored figures—an ideal spot for memorable photos.
On the northern side of the temple, beyond the Upper Terrace, you’ll discover another trio of buildings: the Auxiliary Library (Ho Phra Monthien Tham), Wihan Yot, and the Royal Mausoleum (Ho Phra Nak). Take time to admire their intricately designed roofs before exploring the temple’s hidden gem: a series of 178 mural panels lining the inside of the surrounding wall. These murals, which encircle the temple clockwise starting at the north gate, depict the epic tale of the Ramakien. Look closely at the vivid battle scenes featuring colorful demons—the same protective figures you’ll find in the towering statues throughout Wat Phra Kaew and other Bangkok temples.
The centerpiece of Wat Phra Kaew, located just behind the hermit statue, is the building that enshrines the historic Emerald Buddha. Despite its name, the statue is not made of emerald but of solid jade. This 2-foot-tall dark green Buddha is said to have been carved in India in 43 BC before being hidden in a Sri Lankan cave for safekeeping 500 years later. Over the next millennium, the statue traveled extensively, eventually arriving at Chiang Mai’s Great Stupa in 1468. In 1552, it was relocated to Laos to evade Burmese invasions, though the city fell four years later. The Emerald Buddha remained in Laos until it was reclaimed by the Thais in 1784 and brought to Bangkok.
The statue is adorned with seasonal costumes, which are changed three times a year to mark the summer, winter, and rainy seasons. These ceremonial outfits—featuring a crown and jewelry for summer, a golden shawl for winter, and a gilt robe and headdress for the rainy months—are changed exclusively by the King of Thailand, the only person permitted to approach the statue closely.
Inside the building, murals cover the walls, illustrating the life of Buddha, his journey to enlightenment, and Buddhist cosmology, including the realms of Desire, Being, and Illusion. The narrative begins on the left side with Buddha’s birth in Nepal. While photography is not permitted inside, visitors can capture images from a distance near the entrance. Be sure to admire the ornate golden doors and the intricately detailed guardians that surround the building before continuing your exploration.
Location: Wat Phra Kaew, Na Phra Lan Road, Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand
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Grand Palace
Now wander around the rest of the Palace and look out for:
Outer Court (Phra Ratcha Khruang): This area is home to several important buildings, including the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall, a striking blend of Thai and European architectural styles, originally built as a royal residence and now used for ceremonial purposes. The Amarinda Hall and the Throne Hall are also located in this area, where the king used to meet with dignitaries.
The Borom Phiman Mansion: This was once the royal residence of King Rama V and has beautiful European-style architecture. It’s often used for royal ceremonies and receptions.
The Museum of the Emerald Buddha Temple: This museum houses important artifacts related to the temple, including royal regalia and historical items associated with the Emerald Buddha and the Thai monarchy.
The Inner Court (Phra Maha Phimuk): This is the most sacred part of the palace, where the king and his family lived. It includes several smaller buildings and royal halls that are not always open to the public but offer a glimpse of the regal life of the past.
The Grand Palace Gardens: The gardens are beautifully landscaped with lush greenery, fountains, and ornamental ponds, offering a peaceful atmosphere amidst the grandeur of the palace.
The Emerald Buddha’s Cloister (Phra Ubosot): Located adjacent to Wat Phra Kaew, this area is dedicated to the royal family and sacred rituals. It is beautifully decorated and contains many important royal artifacts.
Phra Ratchawang (Royal Buildings): These buildings are significant for their historical and architectural value. The inner complex contains various buildings and halls, some of which are still used for ceremonial purposes by the royal family.
Location: The Grand Palace, Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand | Hours: Daily 8:30 AM - 4:30 PM | Price: Adults 500 baht | Website | Skip the Line
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Sanam Luang Square
Sanam Luang, a prominent public space in Bangkok, lies in front of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the Grand Palace. Initially named Thung Phra Men, it served as the royal cremation ground for kings, queens, and princes starting during the reign of King Rama I. Over time, this area evolved into a cultural and ceremonial hub for the city.
During King Rama III’s reign (1824–1851), Sanam Luang briefly became a rice plantation, symbolizing Thailand’s fertility amid a conflict with Vietnam over the Cambodian border. Later, in 1855, King Rama IV renamed the field Thong Sanam Luang and enhanced its role as a ceremonial space, introducing the Royal Ploughing Ceremony, constructing a hall for a Buddha image, and adding pavilions and a stage for religious rituals.
King Rama V significantly expanded Sanam Luang in 1897 as part of Bangkok’s centennial celebrations. Inspired by his visit to Java and its beautiful palace gardens, he ordered the removal of older structures and planted two rows of tamarind trees around the field, giving it the aesthetic we see today.
Over the years, Sanam Luang has hosted various events, including kite flying, horse racing, and even golf. It remains a key site for annual traditions such as the Ploughing Ceremony in May. Additionally, it has witnessed grand celebrations like the Bi-Centennial of Bangkok (1982) and the Golden Jubilee Royal Ceremony (1996).
Despite its diverse uses, Sanam Luang retains its traditional role as a royal cremation ground. Prominent figures cremated here include King Ananda Mahidol (1950), Queen Savang Vadhana (1956), Queen Rambhai Barni (1986), Princess Mother Srinagarindra (1996), Princess Galyani Vadhana (2008), and Princess Bejaratana Rajasuda (2012). This blend of history, culture, and royal significance cements Sanam Luang’s place as a treasured landmark in Bangkok.
Location: Sanam Luang, Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand | Hours: 24 Hours
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Wat Mahathat (Temple of the Great Relic)
Wat Mahathat is a prominent Buddhist temple located in Bangkok, Thailand. It holds the distinction of being one of the ten royal temples of the highest class, reflecting its importance in Thai religious and cultural life.The temple’s origins date back to the Ayutthaya period (1351–1767), where it was originally known as Wat Salak. When Bangkok became the capital of Siam, the temple was strategically positioned between the Grand Palace and the Front Palace, the residence of the vice-king. This prime location made it a key site for royal ceremonies and funerals. Over the centuries, the temple has undergone various renovations and upgrades, with successive Thai kings raising its status. In 1803, the temple was officially named Wat Mahathat of Bangkok, and in 1996, it was given its current name. Today, it is also home to the Vipassana Meditation Center, where visitors can practice insight meditation.
The temple grounds also house Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya University, Thailand’s oldest institution of higher learning for Buddhist monks. Established in 1889, the university is a leading center for Buddhist education and offers a range of faculties, including human sciences, social sciences, an international program, and graduate studies. By 1997, the university became a public institution, further cementing its status as an integral part of Thailand’s academic landscape.
Location: Tha Suphan Alley, Khwaeng Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10200, Thailand
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National Museum Bangkok
The National Museum Bangkok showcases an extensive collection of Thai art and history, spanning from the Neolithic era to the present. Established in 1874 by King Rama V, it was the first public venue to display the royal collection of King Rama IV along with other culturally significant artifacts. The museum is housed in the Wang Na Palace, an 18th-century structure that once served as the residence of the Prince Successor. Initially, its purpose was to exhibit antiques and gifts that King Rama V inherited from his father.
Originally named the Bangkok Museum, it was formally opened by King Rama VII in 1926. By 1934, it had evolved under the guidance of the Department of Fine Arts into the National Museum Bangkok, transforming from a dusty collection of relics into a well-organized institution. Free guided tours in English, French (Wed, Thu), Japanese (Wed), and German (Thu) are available at 9:30 AM, offering valuable insights into the exhibits. Today, exhibits are divided into three sections that chronologically follow Thai history, with comprehensive English-language descriptions provided for all artifacts.
The museum features several notable collections:
- The Thai History Gallery explores periods from Sukhothai to Rattanakosin, located in the Sivamokhaphiman Hall.
- The Archaeological and Art History Collection includes artifacts ranging from prehistoric times to the modern era, with an impressive display of ancient sculptures.
- The Decorative Arts and Ethnological Collection features Chinese weaponry, gold treasures, precious stones, ceremonial masks, and significant artifacts from across Southeast Asia.
- Additional highlights include a Funeral Chariot Hall, which displays ornate carriages used in royal cremations, and many remarkable examples of Thai architecture.
Location: National Museum, Soi Na Phra That, Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand
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