Whaligoe Haven, Caithness

Natural Phenomenon near Caithness

Whaligoe Cliffs
Whaligoe Cliffs
CC BY-SA 2.0 / Glen Breaden

Whaligoe Haven is one of the best places to visit in Wick, a breathtaking natural harbour encircled by 250-foot cliffs and accessed only by the remarkable Whaligoe Steps. These 365 zigzagging stone steps, carved into the cliffside, guide visitors down to a sheltered inlet that once bustled with herring boats, fisherwomen, and the hard graft of Scotland's 19th-century fishing industry. Even today, the sense of isolation and wild beauty makes this one of the most atmospheric sites on the Caithness coast.

Often visited on tours of Wick and its dramatic surroundings, Whaligoe Haven invites you to follow in the footsteps of generations of fisherwomen who once hauled heavy baskets of herring up the steep staircase before walking the 7-8 miles to Wick to sell their catch. It's a place where natural drama and human endurance come together in a way that feels profoundly Scottish.

History and Significance of Whaligoe Haven

The harbour was first surveyed in 1786 by renowned engineer Thomas Telford, who famously declared it a terrible place for a harbour. Fortunately, Captain David Brodie of Hope disagreed. For the modest sum of £8, he had the Whaligoe Steps built, enabling safe access to the natural inlet below. His vision transformed Whaligoe into a thriving 19th-century fishing station.

At its peak, the haven supported up to 14 herring boats, and the surrounding cliffs would have echoed with the bustle of fish curing, rope coiling, and the laughter and grit of the women who worked the steps daily. As the herring industry declined, Whaligoe fell quieter, but its heritage endured through local efforts to maintain the steps and preserve the area’s history.

Today, Whaligoe Haven stands as a powerful reminder of the industry, resilience, and determination that shaped coastal Scottish communities. Its dramatic setting and remarkable survival make it both historically significant and visually unforgettable.

Things to See and Do in Whaligoe Haven

Walking the Whaligoe Steps is the heart of any visit. The 365 hand-cut stone steps descend sharply toward the sea, offering spectacular views over waves crashing against the base of the cliffs. On calm days, the haven reveals its sheltered beauty; on rougher days, the Atlantic winds bring drama to the experience.

At the bottom, visitors can explore the remains of the old harbour, including stone piers and working areas once used for gutting and salting fish. The cliffs surrounding the haven offer excellent vantage points for photography, birdwatching, and appreciating the raw landscape of Caithness.

The climb back up is steep but rewarding, giving a deeper understanding of the daily labour once performed by the fisherwomen who made this place famous.

How to Get There

Whaligoe Haven is located near the village of Ulbster, just south of Wick along the A99, and is easiest to reach by car. Visitors arriving by train can travel to Wick Station and continue to Whaligoe via local taxi or bus. Train schedules and bookings can be found on Omio. Those travelling from further afield can fly into Wick John O’Groats Airport, which connects to regional hubs. For the best deals and a seamless booking experience, check out these flights to Caithness on Booking.com.

Practical Tips on Visiting Whaligoe Haven

  • Best time to visit Whaligoe Haven: Late spring to early autumn for safer footing and clearer views.
  • Entrance fee in Euros: Free.
  • Opening hours: Open year-round; best visited in daylight.
  • Official website: Local tourism information available through VisitScotland.
  • How long to spend: 45 minutes to 1.5 hours, depending on pace and photography.
  • Accessibility: The steps are steep and uneven; not suitable for all visitors.
  • Facilities: Limited on-site; parking available near the top of the steps.
  • Photography tip: Sunrise brings striking light over the cliffs and harbour.
  • Guided tours: Occasionally offered locally; self-guided visits are common.
  • Nearby food options: Wick offers cafés, bakeries, and restaurants within a short drive.

Where to Stay close to Whaligoe Haven

Many visitors base themselves in Wick for easy access to Whaligoe Haven and the wider Caithness coastline. A comfortable option is Mackays Hotel, offering warm hospitality and local charm. Another nearby choice is Norseman Hotel, ideal for exploring the harbour and town. For a more scenic retreat, consider Ackergill Tower Hotel, set along the dramatic coastline north of Wick.

Is Whaligoe Haven Worth Visiting?

Absolutely. Whaligoe Haven is one of Scotland's most striking hidden gems, combining dramatic landscapes with powerful local history. The descent down the steps offers a memorable sense of adventure, while the harbour itself provides a compelling insight into the lives of those who worked these cliffs generations ago.

What Other Travellers Say...

Reviews Summary

4.8 (1,424)

Whaligoe Steps is a dramatic handmade stairway down to a sheltered bay on the wild Scottish coast near Lybster, with impressive cliff-top views that photos don't fully capture; the steps and surrounding walls have been carefully maintained by local volunteers you may meet there, and while descending is straightforward the climb back up is a good workout and not for those who fear heights. The tiny car park holds only a few cars, signage is limited so plan your route, and the lower area can be sheltered from wind; there are no cafes and livestock may be present, so bring supplies and keep dogs under control.

Fully Fullarton
3 months ago
"There are no tickets for these steps. These steps aren’t for the faint hearted! I’m petrified of heights but managed. It’s a workout but SO worth it.Spoke to a local who told me the boats used to come in there are and the women used to carry the baskets of fish up the steps, I just managed to walk myself up! 😂nThe views 😍 must see, pics don’t do the view justice. We didn’t go over the other sided like I said.. heights 🤦🏼‍♀️. The car park is tiny but there was a few spaces. There are cows, the farmers sign is fu y of u have a sense of humour but also fair enough 🤦🏼‍♀️ don’t have your dogs off ru ing about barking - they will be shot! There are no cafe’s here, when I was looking this up it mentioned 2 but neither were there. In that last pic, you can walk along there if you’re brave enough. These steps are hand made, you can see these walls are too. Very impressive...."
Geraldine Dower
a month ago
"Spectacular cliffs and sheltered bay. The steps are not difficult to navigate. Very atmospheric place definitely worth doing the hike. We had theplace to ourselves as it was mid afternoon in November...."
B Shrestha
4 months ago
"Absolutely breathtaking! You can see the incredible effort that has gone into preserving the steps so everyone can enjoy them. I was lucky enough tomeet the gentleman who looks after the steps—very knowledgeable and passionate, sharing fascinating history that really brought the place to life...."

FAQs for Visiting Whaligoe Haven

Yes, they are steep and uneven; a moderate level of fitness and good footwear are recommended.
Weather can make the steps slippery and dangerous; avoid visiting in high winds or heavy rain.
Yes, but supervision is essential due to the steep drop and uneven terrain.
Dogs are allowed but should be kept on a lead for safety.
Yes, there is a small parking area near the top of the steps.

Nearby Attractions to Whaligoe Haven

  • Wick: A historic town with a harbour, museum, and coastal walks.
  • Castle of Old Wick: A dramatic cliff-top ruin south of the town.
  • Castle Sinclair Girnigoe: One of Scotland's most impressive ruined castles, perched above the sea.
  • Duncansby Stacks: Striking sea stacks near John O'Groats.
  • Whaligoe Waterfall Trails: Scenic local walks with dramatic coastal scenery.

The Whaligoe Haven appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Caithness!

Moira & Andy
Moira & Andy

Hey! We're Moira & Andy. From hiking the Camino to trips around Europe in Bert our campervan — we've been traveling together since retirement in 2020!

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Caithness: 24 km

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