Place du Change, Lyon

Square in Lyon

CC BY-SA 4.0 / Jean Housen

Place du Change is one of the must-see places in Lyon if you want to feel the old city's commercial heartbeat in a single glance. Once the financial hub where money changers and merchants negotiated fortunes in the 16th century, today it's a compact, elegant square framed by Gothic and Renaissance façades. Street performers, café terraces, and a steady stream of locals and visitors keep it buzzing, but if you pause for a moment, you can still imagine the clatter of ledgers and coins that gave the square its name.

Two landmark buildings anchor the square: the Loge du Change, the former stock exchange later redesigned by Jacques-Germain Soufflot, and the Maison Thomassin, one of Lyon's finest Gothic civil buildings. Together they tell the story of a city that grew rich on trade and banking, while the narrow lanes spilling off the square remind you that this is still very much a living neighbourhood. Place du Change is a great place to visit on a walking tour of Lyon, especially if you're linking the riverside, Rue Saint-Jean, and the traboules of Vieux Lyon.

History and Significance of the Place du Change
Things to See and Do in the Place du Change
How to Get to the Place du Change
Practical Tips on Visiting the Place du Change
Where to Stay close to the Place du Change
Is the Place du Change Worth Visiting?
FAQs for Visiting Place du Change
Nearby Attractions to the Place du Change

History and Significance of the Place du Change

Place du Change owes its name and character to its role as Lyon's money-changing and merchant centre during the Renaissance, when the city was a major European hub for trade, fairs, and banking. In the 16th century, international merchants converged here to exchange currencies, finance ventures, and secure credit lines that tied Lyon to other trading capitals. The square's relatively small footprint belies its historic importance: this was the place where fortunes changed hands and deals shaped the city's future.

The Loge du Change, built in 1631 and redesigned in 1748 by Jacques-Germain Soufflot, symbolises this financial power. Originally serving as the stock exchange, it reflects the shift from medieval market town to modern commercial city, with its neoclassical façade projecting stability and order. Over time, the building’s function evolved, and today it hosts cultural events and concerts rather than commercial transactions, but its presence still speaks of Lyon’s long-standing role as a financial crossroads.

The Maison Thomassin pushes the story further back. Dating to the late 13th century, it belonged to a powerful family of merchants and financiers who were already shaping the city's economic landscape in the Middle Ages. Its steep roofline, pointed Gothic windows, and delicately carved stone details are a rare surviving example of secular Gothic architecture in Lyon. Ground-floor shops with living quarters above were typical of merchant houses of the period, and even though the interior is closed to visitors today, the restored façade keeps that layered history alive on the square.

Things to See and Do in the Place du Change

Start your visit by standing at the centre of the square and slowly turning full circle. You'll see how Place du Change condenses centuries of architecture into a single view: the Gothic lines of Maison Thomassin on one side, the classical rhythm of the Loge du Change on another, and the narrower, more intimate fronts of surrounding townhouses completing the frame. It's the kind of place where you can easily spend a few minutes just noticing rooflines, window shapes, and stone carvings.

Move closer to the Maison Thomassin and study its façade. Look for the Gothic windows with their tracery, the delicate sculpted details around openings, and the steep, pointed roof that marks it as a medieval survivor in a largely Renaissance neighbourhood. Even without going inside, it is one of the things to do in Lyon for architecture lovers who enjoy spotting the differences between secular Gothic and later styles.

Then turn your attention to the Loge du Change, with its balanced neoclassical proportions and dignified frontage. While its days as a stock exchange are long gone, it now hosts cultural events and concerts, so check if anything is on while you're in town. Between sightseeing stops, the square itself is a pleasant place to pause at a café or simply sit on a step and watch life flow past. With Rue Saint-Jean and nearby traboules just a few steps away, Place du Change makes an ideal pivot point for exploring Vieux Lyon's streets, shops, and hidden passages.

How to Get to the Place du Change

If you're arriving from abroad, you'll likely fly into Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport (LYS), which has regular connections across Europe and beyond. From the airport, take the Rhônexpress tram into central Lyon, then connect to the metro and ride to Vieux Lyon - Cathédrale Saint-Jean; from there it's just a short walk through Rue Saint-Jean to reach Place du Change. For the best deals and a seamless booking experience, check out these flights to Lyon on Booking.com.

Travelling by train, you'll arrive at either Lyon Part-Dieu or Lyon Perrache. From Part-Dieu, use the metro to reach Bellecour and then continue to Vieux Lyon - Cathédrale Saint-Jean, before following the signs and cobbled streets into the heart of the old town. From Perrache, you can either take a quick metro or tram connection, or enjoy a pleasant walk along the Saône and cross into Vieux Lyon, then follow Rue Saint-Jean to the square. You can use SNCF Connect to check schedules, compare routes, and purchase tickets for National (SNCF ) and regional trains (TER). For a more streamlined experience, we recommend using Omio, which allows you to easily compare prices, schedules, and book tickets for both National and Regional travel across all of Europe, all in one place.

If you're coming by car, it's best to park on the Presqu'île or in an underground car park near the Saône, such as around Bellecour or Saint-Georges, and then explore Vieux Lyon on foot. If you are looking to rent a car in France I recommend having a look at Discover Cars, first, as they compare prices and review multiple car rental agencies for you. The narrow, often pedestrianised streets around Place du Change are much easier-and more enjoyable-to navigate without a vehicle.

Practical Tips on Visiting the Place du Change

Suggested tips: Take a few minutes to compare the Gothic façade of Maison Thomassin with the neoclassical Loge du Change-this contrast is the square’s visual signature.
Best time to visit: Late morning or early evening, when the light is soft on the façades and the square is lively without feeling overcrowded.
Entrance fee: Free — the square and building exteriors can be enjoyed without any charge.
Opening hours: Accessible at all times; cultural events at the Loge du Change follow their own schedules.
How long to spend: Allow 20-30 minutes to enjoy the square, take photos, and explore the façades, longer if you linger at a café or attend an event in the Loge du Change.
Accessibility: The square is mostly level but paved with cobbles; it is generally accessible, though some edges and nearby lanes may be uneven.
Facilities: There are no facilities on the square itself, but cafés, restaurants, and shops surround it and line nearby streets.
Photography tip: Stand slightly back in the corner opposite Maison Thomassin to capture both the Gothic façade and the Loge du Change in one frame.
Guided tours: Many guided walks through Vieux Lyon stop here to explain its commercial history and architectural mix-worth joining if you enjoy context as you explore.
Nearby food options: The surrounding streets, especially Rue Saint-Jean and Rue de la Loge, are full of bouchons, crêperies, and cafés ideal for a relaxed meal or quick snack.

Where to Stay close to the Place du Change

If you want to stay in the middle of Vieux Lyon’s historic atmosphere, Cour des Loges Lyon, a Radisson Collection Hotel offers Renaissance character just a short stroll from Place du Change. You can wander over to the square in minutes, then retreat to peaceful courtyards and a spa when you're done exploring.

For a slightly more laid-back but still central base, Collège Hôtel in the nearby Saint-Paul district combines quirky school-themed decor with easy access to both the Saône riverfront and Vieux Lyon. From here, Place du Change is only a brief walk through atmospheric streets.

If you prefer to stay on the Presqu’île while remaining close to the old town, Hôtel des Artistes is a convenient choice. It sits right by the river, so you can cross the bridge and be in Place du Change and the heart of Vieux Lyon in just a few minutes.

Is the Place du Change Worth Visiting?

Place du Change is absolutely worth visiting, especially if you're drawn to places where history and daily life overlap in a small but evocative space. The combination of the Loge du Change, Maison Thomassin, and the square's role as a former financial hub gives it a depth that goes far beyond its size. Today, it's a lively crossroads between locals, visitors, and street performers, and This spot is one of the best places to see in Place du Change if you want to understand how trade, architecture, and city life have intertwined in Lyon for centuries.

What Other Travellers Say...

Reviews Summary

4.8 (4)

La Place du Change, 4 Pl. du Change, 69005 Lyon, France, is a lively little square edged with restaurants and cozy, Italian-style streets — an easy, pleasant spot to stroll, sit and soak up the action.

Kevin Shields

3 months ago

"Lovely square with restaurants and lots of action."

Антон Жук

5 months ago

"Cozy streets and small squares in Italian style, very pleasant to walk and enjoy."

FAQs for Visiting Place du Change

Place du Change is located in Vieux Lyon, a short walk along Rue Saint-Jean from the Vieux Lyon - Cathédrale Saint-Jean metro station and close to the Saône riverfront.

The Loge du Change occasionally hosts cultural events and concerts that may be open to the public, while Maison Thomassin is not generally open for interior visits, though its façade can be admired from the square.

Most visitors spend around 20-30 minutes enjoying the architecture, atmosphere, and photos, and often combine it with nearby streets, traboules, and cafés.

Yes, children can enjoy the open space, street performers, and lively atmosphere, though explanations from adults help bring the history and buildings to life.

Yes, the square is generally safe in the evening and often pleasantly lively, especially during peak seasons, though normal city awareness is always recommended.

Nearby Attractions to the Place du Change

Cathédrale Saint-Jean - Lyon's Gothic cathedral nearby, with stained glass and an astronomical clock anchoring the heart of Vieux Lyon.
Miniature and Cinema Museum - A fascinating mix of film props and hyper-realistic miniatures housed in the Maison des Avocats just a short walk away.
Musée Gadagne - Lyon's history and world puppetry museum inside a Renaissance mansion in the Saint-Jean quarter.
Traboules of Vieux Lyon - Hidden passageways linking courtyards and streets, many accessible just off Rue Saint-Jean and the surrounding lanes.
Saône River Quays - Scenic riverfront paths a few minutes from the square, perfect for a stroll with views back toward Vieux Lyon and Fourvière Hill.

The Place du Change appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Lyon!

Moira & Andy

Hey! We're Moira & Andy. From hiking the Camino to trips around Europe in Bert our campervan — we've been traveling together since retirement in 2020!

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