Perfume Pagoda (Huong Pagoda)

Temple in Hanoi

Perfume Pagoda
CC BY-SA 4.0 / Bùi Thụy Đào Nguyên

To the southwest (60km) of Hanoi, steep-sided limestone hills emerge from the paddy fields. The easternmost of these forested spurs, known as Nui Huong Tich (the “Mountain of the Perfumed Traces”), houses northern Vietnam’s most renowned pilgrimage site, the Perfume Pagoda (Chua Huong), named after the spring blossoms that fragrance the air.

The Perfume Pagoda is a collection of 30 Buddhist shrines and temples within the limestone mountains of Huong Tich Son in Hoa Binh province, My Duc district, 60 km southwest of Hanoi. Most cave temples were built in the 17th century, and the site is considered one of Vietnam’s most important temple complexes. The first temple is believed to have been built in the 15th century, although legend states the site was discovered over 2,000 years ago by a Buddhist monk who meditated nearby. The area is renowned for its natural and spiritual beauty, filled with streams, tropical plants, and temples. Visitors are attracted to various pagodas, each with different shrines, primarily Buddhist, with a few animist ones. The Perfume Pagoda draws pilgrims and tourists seeking blessings from the stalagmites and stalactites named for the specific blessings they bestow.

The Temples of Huong Pagoda

Đền Trình

Approaching from the Đáy River, visitors first encounter Đền Trình (Presentation Shrine), also known as Đền Quan Lớn (Shrine of the High-ranking Mandarin), which was built to honor one of the generals of a Hùng King. This large shrine features a gate flanked by two kneeling elephant statues on each side.

Thiên Trù Temple

Beyond Đền Trình lies Thiên Trù (Heaven Kitchen) Temple, also known as Chùa Ngoài (Outer Temple). This temple houses Viên Công Bảo Stupa, a brick structure where Master Trần Đạo Viên Quang, who led the temple’s reconstruction, is buried. Nearby is Thiên Thủy Stupa, a naturally occurring formation resulting from the erosion of a rocky hill. Thiên Trù also boasts a bell tower and the Hall of the Triple Gem, which was last restored in the 1980s. Inside the temple, there is a large statue of Quan Âm Nam Hải.

Giải Oan Temple

On the route from Thiên Trù to Hương Tích Cave is Giải Oan Temple, also known as the ‘Clearing Unjust Charges’ Pagoda. This site features Thiên Nhiên Thanh Trì (Natural Blue Pond), also called Long Tuyền Well, and Giải Oan Stream with its nine sources.

Huong-Tich Pagoda (Cave)

The Huong-Tich Cave, at the peak of the mountain, is a stunning sight. Its entrance, resembling an open dragon’s mouth and decorated with ancient Chinese letters, leads into a vast dripstone cave housing the Chua Huong Tich or Perfume Pagoda.

Houng-Tich-Cave
CC BY-SA 2.0 / Richard Mortel

Built in 1575, the sanctuary contains statues of bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara and Quan Am, the goddess of mercy. The current stone statue of the goddess dates from 1793, after the original bronze statue was looted and melted down. Along the path to the temple, visitors pass various other temples and pagodas, such as Vong Temple, Thuyet Kinh Cave, and Thien Son Pagoda, each offering unique spiritual and historical experiences.

How to Get to the Perfume Pagoda

Most visitors reach the Perfume Pagoda via organized tours, which often include transport, a guide, lunch, a boat ride, and access to the pagodas. If you are idependantly minding:

  • By motorbike: The route Nguyen Trai – Thanh Xuan – Ha Dong – Ba La – Van Dinh will take you to Perfume Pagoda in just under two hours.
  • By car: Phap Van – Cau Gie – Dong Van – National Road 38 – Dau Market – Perfume Pagoda is the best route to take. It takes only around one hour.
  • By taxi: Taking a taxi is the way to go if you want a hassle-free experience. Several reputable taxi companies operate in Hanoi, which will take you directly to your destination.
  • By bus: If you are looking for a more economical option, taking a bus is a great choice. The bus routes 211, 78, and 75 all travel to Huong Pagoda.
  • By Boat (Yen River): The journey to the Perfume Pagoda often begins with a boat trip on the Yen River, a highlight for many visitors. Starting from Ben Duc village, the one-hour boat ride on the Yen-Vi (Swallowtail River) passes jagged rocks and green rice fields, offering a scenic and tranquil experience.
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Best Time to Visit the Perfume Pagoda

The best time to visit the Perfume Pagoda is from October to December, when the area is less crowded and quieter, ideal for enjoying a peaceful boat ride on the river amidst blooming water lilies. However, during the Perfume Pagoda Festival, held every spring after the Vietnamese New Year, thousands of pilgrims visit to pray for happiness and prosperity, making it a vibrant and culturally rich time to experience the site. The festival begins on the 15th day of the 1st lunar month and attracts heavy crowds until mid-March.

The Perfume Pagoda (Huong Pagoda) appears in our Complete Guide to Visiting Hanoi!

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Visiting Perfume Pagoda (Huong Pagoda)

Price:

120,000 VND

Address: Huong Pagoda, Hương Sơn, Mỹ Đức, Hanoi, Vietnam
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